Broderie

An embroidered stole or "chaperon" worn in processions by a member of a charitable confraternity

réf. 4471Normandy 19th century. Embroidered ceremonial stole measuring 184 x 48.5 cm approx. 72.5 x 19 inches liner of thick doubled cotton or linen fabric covered in red felt the front elaborately embroidered with applied passementerie in gold and colored threads including roses vines and wheat sheafs within a wide embossed gold band the stole edged with abundant fringe further decorated with metallic thread; in upper half a large relief-embroidered gold cloth disk representing the sun with wavy rays and a tassel border surmounted and flanked by pairs of attached tassels; in the lower half a large appliqué of a richly embroidered figure of a bishop with pilgrim's staff his face and hands painted his vestments embellished with colored threads sequins purls and lace below him the embroidered number 2 and the place name "Ste. Marthe." Condition: worn dusty the felt with holes possibly wormed especially at top. Known as a chaperon de chariton or de charité this elaborately embroidered 6-foot long "stole" would have been a regular feature of village life in Normandy being worn in processions of the local confraternity. This one was produced in Saint-Marthe a village in the Eure. Sometimes called simply "charités" charitable confraternities were still active during the 19th century after being temporarily suppressed by Revolutionary secularism and at least until recently could still be found in some Normandy villages especially in the Eure Chaline p. 96. Their principal charge dating back to centuries of plague was the burial of the dead. Each confraternity placed itself under the tutelage of a saint or several saints and the Virgin. Consisting of 12 members called "charitons" they were led by the village curé; while basically egalitarian each member had a different duty banner-carrier bell-ringer treasurer etc. The chaperon was the most important of several elements of their special costumes the others being an equally heavy dalmatic a soutanelle or black robe and the barette the ecclesiastical beretta; these were worn in church and in processions. Red chaperons were for regular processions and black ones for funerals. Originally carried only by the ancien maitre the recently retired master of the confraternity a role that was relayed every two years the chaperon came to be worn by all members of the confraternity. One can only imagine what martyrdom hot days brought. In compensation for their sufferings confraternity brothers expected to be wined and dined after funerals earning a certain reputation; hence the French saying "boire comme un chariton." This lavishly embroidered and decorated chaperon was probably made by local women. In photos of modern processions somewhat lighter-looking and simpler chaperons are worn by the charitons. The Musée des Beaux-Arts of Bernay has a chaperon from the same village Inv. 985.6.1. Cf. N. J. Chaline "Pratique et vie religieuse en Haute-Normandie aux XIXe et XXe siècles" Cahier des Annales de Normandie 1976 no. 8 Mentalités religieuses dans la France de l'ouest aux XIXe et XXe siècles: études d'histoire sérielle pp. 35-116. unknown books

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