George BARBIER - (Jeanne PAQUIN)Biblio.com
Les Colchiques. Manteau de voyage de Paquin pl.9 La Gazette du Bon ton 1914 n°1
1914rif. 84687Paris: Lucien Vogel éditeur 1914. Fine. Lucien Vogel éditeur Paris Janvier 1914 19 x 24.50 cm une feuille Original color print heightened with gold printed on laid paper signed at bottom right of the plate. Original engraving created for the illustration of La Gazette du bon ton one of the most beautiful and influential fashion magazines of the 20th century celebrating the talent of French creators and artists in the full bloom of Art Deco. Famous fashion magazine founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel La Gazette du bon ton was published until 1925 with an interruption during the War from 1915 to 1920 due to the mobilization of its editor-in-chief. It consists of 69 issues printed in only 2000 copies and is illustrated notably with 573 color plates and 148 sketches representing models by great couturiers. From their publication these luxurious publications ""addressed bibliophiles and worldly aesthetes"" Françoise Tétart-Vittu ""La Gazette du bon ton"" in Dictionnaire de la mode 2016. Printed on fine laid paper they use a typeface specially created for the magazine by Georges Peignot the Cochin character adopted in 1946 by Christian Dior. The prints are created using the metal stencil technique heightened in colors and for some highlighted with gold or palladium. The adventure begins in 1912 when Lucien Vogel man of the world and fashion - he had already participated in the magazine Femina - decides to found with his wife Cosette de Brunhoff sister of Jean father of Babar the Gazette du bon ton whose subtitle was then ""Art modes et frivolités"". Georges Charensol reports the words of the editor-in-chief: ""In 1910 he observes there existed no fashion journal truly artistic and representative of the spirit of its time. I therefore thought of making a luxury magazine with truly modern artists . I was certain of success because for fashion no country can rival France."" ""Un grand éditeur d'art. Lucien Vogel"" in Les Nouvelles littéraires n°133 May 1925. The magazine's success is immediate not only in France but also in the United States and South America. Originally Vogel thus brings together a group of seven artists: André-Édouard Marty and Pierre Brissaud followed by Georges Lepape and Dammicourt; and finally his friends from the École des beaux-arts who are George Barbier Bernard Boutet de Monvel or Charles Martin. Other talents quickly come to join the team: Guy Arnoux Léon Bakst Benito Boutet de Monvel Umberto Brunelleschi Chas Laborde Jean-Gabriel Domergue Raoul Dufy Édouard Halouze Alexandre Iacovleff Jean Émile Laboureur Charles Loupot Charles Martin Maggie Salcedo. These artists mostly unknown when Lucien Vogel calls upon them will subsequently become emblematic and sought-after artistic figures. These same illustrators create the drawings for the Gazette's advertisements. The plates highlight and sublimate the dresses of seven creators of the era: Lanvin Doeuillet Paquin Poiret Worth Vionnet and Doucet. The couturiers provide exclusive models for each issue. Nevertheless some of the illustrations feature no real model but only the idea that the illustrator has of the fashion of the day. La Gazette du bon ton is a decisive step in fashion history. Combining aesthetic demands and plastic unity it brings together for the first time the great talents of the world of arts letters and fashion and imposes through this alchemy a completely new image of woman slender independent and audacious also carried by the new generation of couturiers Coco Chanel Jean Patou Marcel Rochas. Taken over in 1920 by Condé Montrose Nast La Gazette du bon ton will largely inspire the new composition and aesthetic choices of the ""small dying journal"" that Nast had bought a few years earlier: Vogue magazine. Lucien Vogel éditeur unknown
