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[JAZZ AGE TEXTILES -- WEAVING BOOKS]. SCHUMANN, Otto F[ranz].Biblio.com

Philadelphia Textile School manuscript textile sample books filled with weave formation plates textile samples drawings.

1925ref. 54342Philadelphia PA: Otto F. Schumann Philadelphia Textile School ca. 1925. Small 4to. 8.25 x 9.2 in. 75 leaves unnumbered including 32 leaves with detailed colour charts on weave formations producing various kinds of cloth 3 tipped-in textile samples together w/ weaving instructions in manuscript. Original limp leather 3-ring binder gilt lettering stamped on front cover ink lettering & association of Otto F. Schumann on front cover some soiling dustsoiling edgewear still VG exemplar. This Jazz Age weaving manuscript notebook complete with weave formation design plates fabric samples and instructions offer a remarkable and invaluable artifact of how a young American textile designer and weaver received training at the famed Philadelphia Textile School now Philadelphia University during the 1920s. These course books were judged on completeness and the aspiring weaver’s skill in presenting the details about the instruction as well as their abilities in running the machinery required to produce the cloth. This manuscript notebook includes Schumann’s detailed plates and notes on producing color effect on the plain weave creating Broken Twills Crowfoot Satins Checked & Figured Broken Twills Entwining Twills Basket Weaves and Broken Satins. The extensive manuscript notes detail the loom instructions how many lines are required composition and more in producing the assorted effects. Because of the poor quality of United States textiles exhibited at the Centennial Exhibition in 1876 the Philadelphia Textile Manufacturers pushed for a formalized vocational school to train weavers designers and textile workers. In 1884 it became part of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art with 81 students enrolled by 1885 and by 1894 the School of Textiles added a Department of Wool Carding & Spinning and a Department of Cloth Finishing and Design. By the 1920s the Philadelphia Textile School was offering extensive three-year textile courses chemistry and dyeing courses as well as design courses in cottons woolens worsteds silks Jacquard design and more. Schumann 1906-1967 was the son of Hugo Schumann founder and owner of the Maid Hosiery Mills in Reading PA through the opening decades of the 20th century for whom he worked with until after World War II as designer and sales executive. Otto F. Schumann, Philadelphia Textile School, hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos450,00 US$≈ 402,04 €

(LONG ISLAND IN THE GILDED AGE)Biblio.com

Photo Scrapbook Shows Life And Leisure During The Gilded Age On Long Island

ref. 6174LONG ISLAND. This scrapbook displays photographs taken between 1887-1889 that capture a wealthy familys life on Long Island during the Gilded Age. The term The Gilded Age created by Mark Twain refers to the period of the late nineteenth century typically the 1870s through the turn of the 20th century during which rapid economic growth rapid industrialization and widespread European immigration primarily unskilled labor transformed the economies of the Northern and Western United States. According to the United States Census the era saw a real wage growth of 40% from 1860 to 1890 with the average annual wage per industrial worker including men women and children rising from $380 in 1880 $11523 in 2022 dollars to $584 in 1890 $18370 in 2022 dollars a gain of 59%. This rise in wealth resulted in the rise of a New Money elite those who made their money not through generational wealth and family connections but rather through oil the railroads and other rising industries. They are best exemplified by John D. Rockefeller Jay Gould Henry Clay Frick Andrew Mellon Andrew Carnegie Henry Flagler J. P. Morgan Leland Stanford and Cornelius Vanderbilt. New York was often at the center of the Gilded Age as the worlds dominant financial market and the nations leader in economic investment immigration political corruption and culture. This scrapbook contains 59 black-and-white photographs. They are affixed or mounted to 43 of 70 pages in the album. 29 of the photographs are 3.5 x 4.5 19 are 6.5 x 4.5 and 11 are 5.5 x 7.5. Two of these images are cyanotypes. Though the family is not named in the album and photographs with names underneath lead to nothing online there is a photograph in front of a house labeled Westbrook. The Westbrook estate on Long Island was designed in 1886 for William Bayard Cutting 18501912 by the architect Charles C. Haight in the Tudor Revival style. It contained the first private golf course in the United States and is now a part of a state park called the Bayard-Cutting Arboretum. Cutting started the sugar beet industry in the United States in 1888 was a builder of railroads operated the ferries of New York City his maternal grandfather was a partner of Robert Fulton and developed part of the south Brooklyn waterfront Red Hook. Images include a large extended family repeatedly and leisurely photographed the Harvard-Yale sailing race in 1887 at New London young men likely Yale students yachting and relaxing on a boat named the Princess and beautiful images of the scenery and waters of Long Island. Overall the album is in good shape. One photograph is damaged and several others have minor tears or chips. The scrapbook is half-leather and half-cloth so the spine is worn and the corners are rubbed and bumped. Regardless the scrapbook is a prize for anyone interested in this fascinating and relevant era in American history. It provides fantastic insight into the life of a wealthy Long Island family including what they did what they wore and how they presented themselves to each other and their neighbors. hardcover