19.010 resultados
1915ref. 60859New York & San Francisco CA: Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co. 1915. Oblong 12mo. 5.4 x 4 in. 13 3 pp. printed in sepia. With numerous illustrations. Colour-printed softcovers in green illust. of seamstress sewing on a Singer on verso of front cover and illustration of the Singer Pavilion on verso of back cover minor dustsoiling slight shelfwear still VG bright copy from the library of Prof. Marvin Nathan. First edition of this very scarce Singer Sewing Machine company exhibit catalogue for the Panama-Pacific International Exposition display which included an entire series of paintings recreated with sewing machine embroidery “Costumes of All Nations” featuring national dress on dress mannequin’s along with cases displaying sewing samples created as part of the instructional book system at Singer Sewing Centers. The illustrations depict those items which could be created by the homemaker on their own Singer. Worldcat locates 2 copies Cal State Library Sutro. Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co., paperback
1951ref. 61036New York: G.P. Putnam’s Sons 1951. 8vo. 8 310 pp. Photo frontisp. numerous photo plates. Gray publisher’s cloth scuffing at front hinge w/ d.j. photo of author on back cover by Robert Avedon minor chipping edgewear old tape repairs still VG-/VG- copy signed by author on ffep. from the library of Maebelle Doolittle Traylor 1881-1961 former Pasadena socialite longtime widow of stock trader Neal Traylor and daughter of Pasadena pioneer developer Samuel Hosmer Doolittle 1850-1942 w/ clipping laid-in. First edition signed of this memoir by the famed Hollywood fashion designer who had begun his career before World War I with Lucile and would later design for the Lasky Players Silent movies. Later after setting up his own Fashion House he designed clothes for Greta Garbo Shirley Temple Theda Bara Gloria Vanderbilt Mary Pickford Ginger Rogers Irene Dunne Ingrid Bergman and Katharine Hepburn emphasizing eye-catching elements and fitted torso evening garments. G.P. Putnam’s Sons, hardcover
1942ref. 61064Brooklyn NY: Barbara Duffy ca. 1942-1945. Seven pieces of original pen & ink art and gouache colouring and overpainting sized from 10 x 15 in. 3 up to 15 x 20 in. 3 on “Winsor & Newton’s Illustration Board 30 x 40” while the 7th piece is 9 x 17 in. executed on textured thick laid-paper pencil annotations in MS on fore-edges all pieces signed in thick black pen on versos some dustsoiling staining to fore-edges to a couple bumping to corners edgewear still a VG set of well-done exemplars. These original fashion design illustrations encompass women’s dresses hats fur coats evening wear and a post-War design by Mangone. The two dresses drawn by Duffy are reminiscent of the Claire McCardell easy to wear and comfortable dresses which emerged at the end of the War and featured a cinched-in waist floppy collars and padded shoulders retaining the influence of men’s tailoring on women’s fashions during the War. The “Toppers” are splendid examples of box or swagger coats often made in light wool cotton or rayon blends and in this case with fetching hats and cinched-in waists. The two smaller designs with mink or beaver coats include one with a matching purse and the other with a pillbox hat. The two “Paris” style Cloche hats are nicely drawn and one is fitted with a mesh veil. The exceptional Mangone design indicates it was “Sketched at Mangone’s” which was probably one of the frequent sessions the designer would put on fashion shows at the Fashion Institute or local boutiques in and around New York following World War II and features a coat trimmed in beaver fur with Cloche hat and according to Duffy was available in light and dark wool along with an ascot. Mangone 1884-1957 was not only a significant Italian-American designer who quickly adapted Paris fashion trends into his own American style and was very popular from before World War I until after World War II. Strikingly he also was a survivor of the Hindenburg disaster who managed to leap from the Zeppelin at Lakehurst NJ with his daughter and grand-daughter looking on suffering significant burns and after shock and hospitalization spent considerable time recovering. Duffy b. 1919 taught at the Jacob Gould Vocational School for girls in Prospect Park Brooklyn NY from the time she left college until after World War II after which she worked as designer in local department stores and then disappears from census and public records. Barbara Duffy, unknown
1955ref. 61063Los Angeles CA: K. Jo ca. 1955. Folio. 14 x 18 in. Original pen & ink w/ gouache colouring on studio board initials of artist at lower right corner edgewear & chipping to corners fore-edges still a VG- exemplar. This delightful artwork mock-up for a Vogue fashion advertising counter display featuring a stylish black chenille silk yarn cocktail dress with the model sporting a short haircut hoop earrings and white evening gloves. The same model is shown wearing a beret and chenille wool/rayon fabric evening coat double-breasted pinch waist and gloves. K. Jo the unidentified artist has left the banner blank which would have included in the printed version the day & time of either the fashion display or of the possible patterns. This cataloguer could find no information on the original artist and two possible references to cover art designs for Vogue in 1951 and 1953. K. Jo, unknown
1519ref. 60351Greenwich CT & New York: Conde Nast Publications Inc. Sept. 15 1932. Folio. 96 pp. With 100’s of text illustrations photo illustrations mostly in black & white some colour illustrations photos & plates. Colour-illustrated softcovers cover art by Benito 1891-1981 on metallic silver background Art Deco lettering design Camel cigarette ad on back cover chipping head & foot of spine minor creasing edgewear still VG copy. First edition thus of this installment in the noted fashion magazine’s results of the Paris Autumn fashion lines featuring designs by Schiaparelli Patou Lelong Forstmann’s Elga and others. Benito who was a native of Valladolid Spain later became one of the most iconic Art Deco artists of the Jazz Age creating covers for Vogue and Vanity Fair and heavily influenced by Picasso Modigliani and others. Conde Nast Publications, Inc., paperback
1935ref. 59961Chicago: Sears Roebuck & Co. 1935. 4to. 20 pp unpaginated. including 4 pp. order blank with measuring instructions. With printed illustrations throughout in orange & black 50 mounted fabric swatch samples of worsted wool and worsted wool blends. Self-printed colour-illustrated softcovers in orange & black Art Deco cover art & lettering w/ “Easter” promotional label mounted at upper left front cover dated March 23 1935 minor creasing shelfwear still a VG copy. Early edition of this scarce and unusually complete sample catalogue for men and young men’s suits featuring the Syracuse Parkway Collegian Kenwood Wall Street & Walton styles from Sears Roebuck & Co. These special sample catalogues were issued as supplements to their famous catalogue which were issued in millions of copies even during the Great Depression. These catalogues were more expensive to produce and were intended to provide a reasonable alternative to the larger Men’s suit purveyors such as J.L. Taylor M. Born and others. This catalogue provides invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of fashion influenced by the elegance and glamor of Hollywood films at the time. There is definite evidence of influence from the popular Film Noir films of the period. The men’s suits showed a trend towards padded shoulders suit lapels that were not as long and an increased weight and drape to the clothes as well as wider legs for the younger “fast” crowd. Worldcat locates only 1 copy Ohio University. Sears, Roebuck & Co., paperback
1956ref. 60111Cincinnati OH: The Display Publishing Co. 1956. Oblong 4to. 12.5 x 9 in. 4 106 leaves. With 100’s of photo illustrations throughout. Pictorial black ribbed publisher’s cloth white illust. of Men’s torso mannequin front cover w/ sport coat & ties white lettering comb-binding as issued minor shelfwear rubbing at corners still VG copy. First edition of this scarce and lavishly illustrated Mid-20th-Century design instruction work for preparing men’s fashions and styles for window displays counter displays and point-of-sale islands within department stores and men’s stores. Specific instructions include ironing dress shirts pinning pieces properly in place properly tying ties such as the Full Windsor preparing shoes & hat displays and so much more. Buzan 1901-1974 was a longtime salesmen for men’s wear oversaw a Lubbock Texas Department Store after World War II and taught showcard writing and window displays at Texas Tech. The Display Publishing Co., hardcover
1930ref. 59525Hannover: Schneidermister ca. 1930-1933. Oblong elephant folio. 23.5 x 14.5 in. 25 leaves unnumbered. Original women’s fashion patterns in pencil throughout many with tipped-in pattern cutouts mounted on the sheets as well as colour images of the finished design tipped-in and mounted manuscript pencil notes & directions in some colour pencil additions to a a few patterns. Stiff limp beige covers black cloth spine title mounted on front cover scutting edgewear repair to corners of front cover corner still a remarkable manuscript w/ tipped-in instructions for taking measurements and fashion by the Nazi Party on first leaf including one entitled “Ein Modewart macht Propaganda.” This German fashion pattern tailoring and pattern manuscript provides an exceptional original artifact of the period when the Nazi Party began to force educational and cultural changes upon German Society against the tailoring and fashion industry in Germany during the early 1930’s. By 1930 Berlin had emerged as an international fashion capital drawing Parisian fashion designers and most of the tailoring schools and fashion houses were operated by generations of Jewish family owners. Tailors and fashion designers were constantly reminded that they must create a wholly Aryan fashion and that they were to avoid French or other outside influences. Despite the pressure most women tailors and fashion designers in the tailoring or cutting schools continued to still draw their influences from Parisian and American couturiers by creating their own patterns and pattern books from which these internationally themed clothing designs could be made. This fashion pattern book by Bode focuses on women’s suits skirts capes coats and knickerbockers. However the Party never succeeded in creating a unique Fashion industry especially because of the drive to dress women in peasant costumes or uniforms even as the Nazi Party would confiscate the assets of over 2700 Jewish fashion houses retailers and manufacturers with 1000’s of tailors and seamstresses forced into labor and concentration camps to produce clothes for military and high society. See: Uwe Westphal Fashion Metropolis Berlin 1836-1939: The Story of the Rise and Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry 2019. Schneidermister, hardcover
ref. 0244958483.Gpaperback. Good. Access codes and supplements are not guaranteed with used items. May be an ex-library book. paperback
1971ref. 58823New York: Simplicity Pattern Co. 200 Madison Ave. 1971. 4to. 96 pp. With 100’s of colour illustrations photos text illustrations diagrams & sewing measurement instructions. Colour-illustrated softcovers cover art photo of models in stylish hot pants and sporty jackets and vests minor shelfwear slight bumping still VG copy. First edition of this Simplicity catalogue reflecting the explosion of fashions influenced by hippie fashions of the 1960s featuring bold colours embroidery and even nascent prairie dresses to mini skirts shorts all promoted in the new synthetic fabrics of the “Polyester Decade.” Simplicity Vogue and other sewing pattern makers were all drawing from such designers as Yves Saint-Laurent Gunne Sax and Bill Gibb reviving Victorian styles as well as the 1930s and 1940s with Halston’s dress designs reminiscent of the 1950’s shirt dresses. This Simplicity fashion serial began in 1966 and ran till Spring 1979 and issues tend to be scarce. No copies of this particular issue located in Worldcat 6 libraries hold assorted issues. Simplicity Pattern Co., 200 Madison Ave., paperback
1922ref. 58300New York: James H. Dunham & Co. 336-338-340-342-344 Broadway 1922. Folio. 10.25 x 13.5 in. 22 108 2 201-280 pp. w/ 32 pp. of product insert promotions and plates 3 large folding. With 100’s of illustrations photos 24 tipped-in fabric swatches & samples in assorted colours and textiles. Quarter-black cloth over printed illustrated softcovers rounded corners illustration front cover printed borders dustsoiling to fore-edges darkening to textblock couple minor closed tears toning to order forms still VG- copy. First edition thus of this expansive and well-illustrated dry goods catalogue filled with listings and samples of Percale Suitings Chiffons Ginghams Chambrays and Fine Zephyrs embossed colour samples Cannon and Boott Mills towels ads for Bear Brand Hosiery and more. Also present are ads and pricing for Dunham’s fancy ribbons Burson fashion hosiery petticoats flannel wear sateen bloomers buttons and Fleisher yarns. Founded originally in Hartford CT by Amos Eno the company would go through several incarnations and reformulations as a dry goods business in New York until new large warehouse and retail site was built on Broadway after the death of James Dunham d. 1901. Worldcat locates 1 copy Hagley similar pagination. James H. Dunham & Co., 336-338-340-342-344 Broadway, paperback
1994ref. 58623Milan et al: Valentino Atelier by Carnet Elegance Exclusive Distributor for North America 1994. Thick 4to. 12.75 x 12.25 in. 106 pp assorted pagination. With 51 colour fashion designs 136 tipped-in cotton silk wool acrylic and blend fabric sample swatches several printed fabric samples. Black silk cloth gilt lettering stamped on front cover numbered on colophon at rear very minor rubbing edgewear still VG bright copy. First edition No. 970 of this sumptuously illustrated sample fashion catalogue from one of the greatest Italian Couturiers Valentino Clemente Ludovico Garavani the incomparable fashion designer. This collection was representative of many of Valentino’s collections of the 1990’s integrating themes of revival and self-reference-flounces embroidery and dots partly as a way of highlighting his 30 years of fashion designs. In addition these designs and their fabrics reflect a foreshadowing of the later mid-1990’s shift towards a more bohemian style drawing upon 1970’s fashions mixing fabrics embroidery and Eastern influences in their designs. No copies located in Worldcat; See: Pelle & Mauries Valentino. Thirty years of magic 1990; Pelle Valentino’s Magic 1998. Valentino Atelier by Carnet, Elegance, Exclusive Distributor for North America, hardcover
1926ref. 58100New York & Chicago: J.L. Taylor & Co. 1926. Thick elephant folio 17 x 23.25 x 2.5 ins. 75 3 pp. printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. With 17 colour fashion plates illustrating Taylor styles of the period verso of almost all pages with 364 of 375 mounted textile samples in wool wool-rayon blends some felt backed silk moleskin corduroy cashmere waistband sample and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability some of the 12 missing samples are indicated in pencil as being “Out” as well as a few present 1 additional pinned-in numerous illustrations throughout in blue-green colour tinting including Chicago & New York factories some diagrams charts and graphs. Original half-green cloth over gray green cloth corners gilt lettering on front cover colour plate w/ J.L. Taylor tailor mounted front cover some wear & minor bumping to fore-edges corners some minor soiling & occasional foxing to interior leaves -- some of it dust from the wool samples 10-15 samples with minor deterioration and evidence of old predation still a very good unsophisticated and remarkably complete example w/ original 9 x 21 in. double-sided stock list in red & black laid-in. First edition of this scarce and unusually complete salesman sample catalogue for Jazz era men’s suits in 1928-1929. J.L. Taylor maintained a huge tailoring operation in both Chicago and New York until after World War II employing hundreds of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor for two years or more. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of F. Scott Fitzgerald and the Flappers. Most of the colour fashion plates illustrating the available styles have elegantly dressed women and settings in the background including with an emphasis on sporting in summer so golf tennis croquet canoeing boating and swimming all make an appearance. Of particular interest is the wonderful dress chart indicating styles needed clothes accessories and shoes which one would need for Day Wedding Matinee Reception Evening Dress and many others offering an excellent marketing opportunity for the store to sell the customer items to compliment his suits overcoats and other fashion wear ordered from J.L. Taylor. The final plate focuses on the lightweight “Palm Beach” & “Mohair” suits at the height of the 1920’s boom in Florida featuring snappily dressed models in Panama straw hats and a lightweight fedora. Worldcat locates 1 partial copy Preserved at the Library of Congress stripped of samples and used as scrapbook for Wilbur’s Drug Store prescriptions of Portland ME -- not an unusual occurrence. J.L. Taylor & Co., hardcover
1930ref. 58140Paris Vienna New York et al: Societe Graphique S.A. Editions de Mode Classique Modes Co. Importers of Fashions 303 Fifth Ave. ca. 1930. Folio. 9 x 13 in. IV pp. leaves as V-XX hand-coloured pochoir plates 2 pp. pattern cutting plates. Quarter-embossed gold foil over pink printed softcovers gilt & black decorative lettering minor shelfwear slight bumping to corners rubbing still a VG copy. First edition of this beautifully coloured collection of haute couture Parisian fashion dress designs by Lucien LeLong 1889-1958. Lelong was a contemporary designer alongside Chanel Vionnet Molyneux Lanvin & Patou focusing on designing for cafe society during the 1920’s and 1930’s. These designs emphasize Lelong Schiaparelli and Vionnet’s move towards a more sophisticated and elegant feminine silhouette during the 1930’s with hemlines dropped to mid-calf or close to the ankle soft slim-fitting dresses and backless evening gowns. Classique Modes also distributed other similar pochoir-illustrated fashion design periodicals such as Paris Chic Elite Robes elegantes Iris and others. The final 2 plates No copies in Worldcat. Societe Graphique S.A., Editions de Mode, Classique Modes Co., Importers of Fashions, 303 Fifth Ave., paperback
1927ref. 58104New York: B. Altman & Co. Fifth Avenue July-August 1927. Tall 8vo. 7 x 11 in. 46 pp. Illustrated throughout. Colour-illustrated sofcovers stylish Art Deco cover art of flapper woman in stylish hat with cocktail on ocean liner beach fashions on back cover minor dustsoiling shelfwear minor bumping at couple corners still VG copy. First edition of this nicely printed and quintessential Flapper Era in-house fashion magazine and catalogue for B. Altman. Filled with novelties accessories and designs targeting the young flapper along with encouraging the Negligee for every mood marketing summer vacation items such as cameras photo albums even a portable sun dial. Worldcat locates 3 incomplete and broken run holdings of the Altman Magazine Mint Museum U of RI UVA. B. Altman & Co., Fifth Avenue, unknown
1953ref. 58213Seattle WA: Nancy Paine ca. 1953-54. Twenty-one original fashion design watercolour paintings all oblong folio 9 sized 15 x 12 in.; 12 sized 18 x 15 in. 1 is painted title only many of them signed by Nancy down in lower corner 1 graded and reviewed by teacher several with neat cursive annotations some curling minor edgewear to corners some toning still VG set with the 2nd set retaining the original portfolio cover sheet. These original watercolour fashion designs reflect the 1950’s emphasis on full circle skirts swing skirts pencil skirts tea length dresses and fitted tight waist blouses reflecting the influence of Christian Dior towards increased femininity in the post-World War II era. For the College Coed portfolio our young artist has included designs for Capri pants lingerie fitted wool dresses flowing “poodle” skirts bathing suits tennis outfit ice skating clothing riding outfits and evening wear. The second portfolio incorporates diamond pattern one-piece bathing suits terrycloth robes different evening weather and nighttime negligee. Although young Miss Paine would not go onto becoming a commercial artist she did work as office manager for many years for the Simpson Lumber Company. Nancy Paine, hardcover
1946ref. 57486New York: Lord & Taylor 1946. Tall 8vo. 3 101 4 pp. Double-page frontispiece white crepe-paper Christmas Tree pop-up by The Beistle Co. Illustrated throughout most in black & white 10 colour plates some photographic others a mixed-media effect. Colour-illustrated softcovers wraparound cover art minor shelfwear edgewear at corners light rippling to gutter margin of first couple leaves still a VG copy. First edition of this fashionable post-World War II catalogue celebrating 101 stylish gifts for men women & children following the easing of Wartime restrictions. The impressionistic illustrations were created by the in-house Lord & Taylor artists who were some of the most influential designers during the 1940’s and 1950’s including Dorothy Hood Helen Hall Arnold Hall Jean Karnoff Susan Abbott Betty Offt and Carl Wilson. Many of the 101 items drip with a glamour desired and reflected in post-War film and popular culture and a distinct emphasis on femininity with such items as the “Ermine hug-me-tight” stole Hand-made silk lingerie with French Alencon lace Koret dinner bag the Harem lounging costume by Joseph Whitehead Gloves that go up and up and more. Worldcat locates 1 copy Penn State; See: Keren Ben-Horin July Treasure of the Month: Frances Neady Collection On Pins and Needles July 25 2012. Lord & Taylor, paperback
1941ref. 57736New York: Apparel Arts Esquire Inc. Esquire Building Madison at 46th March 1941. Folio. 10.75 x 14.25 in. 98 pp. Numerous colour plates many double-page colour photographs 23 of 30 fabric samples tipped-in photo illustrations colour photo illustrations. Quarter-blue cloth over colour-illustrated photo boards cover art of divers in swim suits from high dive platforms edgewear rubbing rubbing to corners some dustsoiling still VG- copy. First edition of this World War II-era trade magazine launched in 1931 in the depths of the Great Depression by Weintraub Smart & Gingrich from the Menswear Service Corporation. This issue features illustrations and advertisements by such artists as John Lagatta 1894-1977; Allen for Portis hats the modernist master Paul Rand’s 1914-1996 Summer 1941 poster the iconic fashion illustrator Laurence Fellows 1885-1964 and other mainstays. This installment features advertisements from such menswear brands as Botany Worsted Mills Jockey Manhattan Shirt Co. Dobbs Hats Hickok John Cyril Woolen Co. and even Pittsburgh Plate Glass Co. fashion displays. By the 1940’s the magazine was printed by Esquire Inc. issued 8 times a year continuing in print until replaced by Gentlemen’s Quarterly GQ in 1959. See: Marianne Brown Apparel Arts & Conde Nast May 10 2017. Apparel Arts, Esquire Inc., Esquire Building, Madison at 46th, hardcover
1930ref. 57289Nottingham UK: Vida Mills Jones Stroud & Co. Ltd. ca. 1930. Thick 8vo. 26 pp unpaginated. on thick card stock w/ burgundy linen hinges at gutter margin w/ 113 rayon elastic nylon elastic rubber and silk rayon blend trims 1 silver gelatin frontisp. photo mounted on front pastedown sized 3.5 x 5.5 in. w/ 10 colour-printed & illustrated labels and elastic holders tipped-in numerous printed photographic plates. Quarter-burgundy coloured cloth over simulated alligator boards screw posts at gutter margin minor rubbing slight bumping to corners 1 sample removed still a VG copy. First edition thus of this extraordinary and inventive salesman sample catalogue for elastic trims between the Wars. Horace Jones had invented a specialized braiding machine in 1927 for creating elastics by braiding rubber filaments together with rayon nylon cotton or silk-rayon blends to create a number of different “Elastic” Boil Proof Vida trims. Prior to the widespread introduction of many stretchable and elastic fabrics following World War II Vida Mills products were used shoulder straps for lingerie suspenders both for men and women’s fashions swim trunk and briefs trunk top elastic bands. In addition these were used for car covers bags accessories creating pleats sleeve hems and much more. In addition there are a number of samples included here for durable boot and shoe laces. The coloured and metallic Ric Rac trims were used in costumes uniforms decorative elements on clothing and many other applications. By 1930 the company had deployed 3000 braiding machines generating over 52 million yards of elastic braid annually and in 1940 expanded into manufacturing glass tapes and woven fabrics for electrical installations and industrial Wartime applications. The company still operates today as the Jones Stroud Insulations Ltd. subsidiary of the Krempel Group since 2000. No copies in Worldcat; See: History of Jones Stroud Insulations -- Timeline Krempel 2015; Trade Marks Ordinance Official Gazette Kenya Dec. 4 1956 p. 1315. Vida Mills, Jones Stroud & Co., Ltd., hardcover
1927ref. 57311Graz Austria: Richard Neurath Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21 1927. Two vols. 1st - Folio. 11 x 13.75 in. 45 1 pp. on thick boards. With 246 tipped-in fabric samples of wools wool blends 27 fashion plate illustrations 2 for women’s coats w/ price list and letter to salesmen dated August 1927. Original quarter-black cloth over embossed & decorated boards flaps at fore-edges w/ handle and clasp raised gilt lettering on front cover minor shelfwear rubbing clasp guard repaired & reinforced still VG complete exemplar retaining the original button clasp; together with 4to. 8.25 x 11.25 in. 4 pp unpaginated. w/ 16 additional wool and wool-blend samples tipped-in self-printed covers rounded corners. First edition of this unusually rare fashion salesman sample catalogue for men’s suits and sporting wear during the Roaring 20’s with many of the suits sporting vests while also featured are shooting & hiking suits sportswear and a rich array of fabrics drawing upon English fashion designs. Following World War I there was a concerted move away from starched collars and formal three-piece suits towards soft collars one- or two-button suit jackets and even often worn without a waistcoat. Also featured in this catalogue are many examples of the plus-fours developed out of ordinary knickers these short-legged pants were a baggier version of their predecessors and proved popular for hikers golfers and other outdoors activities. Also featured are winter coat fabrics and designs for women in velour and thick felt twill. The laid-in additional catalogue promoted the latest Loden Merino wool fabrics and thick camel hair woolens. Neurath 1882-1948 operated a successful mail-order tailoring business until the 1938 Anschluss when the Nazi’s annexed Austria and forced the April 10 plebiscite. He survived the War and later died in Tel Aviv Israel in 1948. The building which housed his offices and tailoring facilities in Graz is now the home of the popular Cafe Kaiserfeld. No copies in Worldcat. Richard Neurath, Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21, hardcover
1905ref. 56908Chicago IL: American Woolen Mills Co. 1905. Thick elephant folio 17.5 x 21.5 x 3.25 in. 58 pp. printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. With 6 black & white fashion plates illustrating suit styles of the period with 380 of 400 -- many marked in pencil “O.S.” or Out-of-Stock mounted textile samples in wool wool-silk blends -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability numerous text illustrations decorative borders printed in colour many showing bucolic scenes of sheep pastures and winter frolics. Black & blue cloth Arts & Crafts gilt lettering & ornament on front cover expertly rebacked and back cover renewed dustsoiling and occasional soiling to some leaves some samples w/ predation and minor loss dampstaining to gutter margin of last few leaves minor loss & damage to last couple leaves still a good copy. First edition of this scarce Progressive-era salesman sample catalogue for Winter season men’s suits overcoats and evening wear. The American Woolen Mills Company also known as the “Progressive Tailors”maintained a huge tailoring operation in Chicago at Union & Washington until the Great Depression employing hundreds of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders. Unlike J.L. Taylor Royal Tailors and many of the other tailoring houses of the period the American Woolen Mills targeted the average white collar clerk or American immigrant salesman and merchant trying to look professional and offered $ 15.00 high class made to measure suits. These catalogues were very expensive to produce and were often issued with minimal company brand names allowing their sales force to target small shops mercantiles and general stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor for several years. Sales people were directed to simply clip the corners of samples for out-of-stock and discontinued fabrics but they often chose to remove the entire sample in order to not distract potential customers. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of Teddy Roosevelt and the Anti-Trust policies even referring to these in their sales pitch by claiming that unlike Trusts which “by combining saves numerous expenses and sticks ALL the savings in its own pocket. . . there is no Trust in the tailoring trade.” They further claim that they remove all middlemen procure woolens directly from the weavers and by avoiding wastes of all kinds that AWM CO. lowers their prices and “it is a public benefit.” The textiles here focus on darker shades and very muted colours along with durable thick fabrics while marketing their double-breasted sacks 3-button frock coats 2-button single breasted suits assorted overcoats and more. No copies in Worldcat; See: Swell Nifty Suit Free! The Household Journal Vols. V No. 8 August 1912 p. 6; Machinists’ Monthly Journal Vol. XVII No. 3 March 1905 p. 282. American Woolen Mills Co., hardcover
1939ref. 56900Chicago IL: Jackman Sportswear Co. Inc. 14 E. Jackson Blvd. 1939. 8vo. 5.5 x 8.5 in. which opens up into 8 pp. Oblong 4to. 11 x 8.5 in. printed in brown on cream-coloured paper w/ numerous illustrations 4 fabric sample swatches tipped-in self-printed softcovers together w/ 3 leaves of price-lists and order forms preserved w/ mailing envelope to Henry Mayer Mahoning Valley Country Club Lehighton PA very slight shelfwear creasing NF. First edition of this scarce sample catalogue for men’s sporting clothes on the eve of World War II. This catalogue offers Raglander Raglan Sport Shirts Tommy Armour Gaucho Raglan golf shirts Jerry Glynn jackets in single-ply gabardine or wool tweed water proof silk shirts for golfers bowling shirts golf gloves Camel cloth caps and more. The famed golfer’s Jerry Glynn reversible golf jackets were taken over and produced by Whitewater following World War II and with elastic back and wind and rain resistance proved popular for decades. Tommy Armour Gaucho Raglan shirts first made their appearance in the 1930s after he had largely retired to Boca Raton FL and golf equipment is still marketed with his name. No copies located in Worldcat. Jackman Sportswear Co., Inc., 14 E. Jackson Blvd., paperback
1995ref. 56987San Francisco CA: Levi Strauss & Co. Publishing 1995. Folio. 313 5 pp. With 100s of illustrations colour plates colour photos large folding plates & pages illustrated endpapers. Quarter-black cloth over illustrated boards cover art of Levi’s brand jean label slight shelfwear rubbing w/ mylar dustjacket minor bumping to foot of spine edgewear still NF/VG- copy inscribed by Downey & McDonough in Sharpie marker on ffep. to Gina “Always sweet always the best-dressed!” First edition signed presentation copy of this lavish pop-culture artist’s book celebrating the advertising and Levi’s jeans worn by miners labor union members field workers protesters and many others for over 150 years. Even includes a photograph of the complete first womenswear outfit produced by Levi Strauss of hiking knickerbockers for that visit to Yosemite. Levi Strauss & Co., Publishing, hardcover
1960ref. 56965Pasadena CA: n.p. ca. 1960. Folio. 14.5 x 20 in. Twelve original gouache paintings on thick artist’s board 10 of them either w/ typed or manuscript labels 1 entitled “Garden Party” written in manuscript at upper fore-edge 8 preserving their cloth fabric swatch samples some w/ designer’s notes trimmings etc. All are preserved in a gray linen clamshell case minor edgewear rubbing wear to corners still a well-preserved fine set of paintings. This nicely executed set of fashion designs were apparently created for a Civil War theatre production in Southern California around 1960 with characters named Florence Bagshot Mrs. Ludley Bagshot Agatha Mrs. W.D.P.S. and Mrs. Forbes. The designs primarily focused on the women characters including one of a nurse standing in costume in gray striped dress apron and cap with Confederate cavalry trooper in kepi astride his horse and hatless officer with sash standing in the background. Many of the designs reflect the colour palate of the early 1960’s with avocado green vivid blues solid brown earth tones and bright nearly neon orange gauze fabrics in the renderings and samples which would not have been common in those combinations during the Civil War era. Still most of the dress designs incorporate the hoop skirts of the period often with crinoline and/or crinoline cage hoop skirts and high collars with ties and ribbons at the neck and trim patterns typical of the period. The design for Florence Bagshot’s bedroom wear incorporates elements of Mid 20th-Century design and sensibilities rather than the more common chemise and sturdy cotton for the 1860’s. The Confederate Nurse design was painted on “Brownie Board Cold Pressed Duncan Vail Co. Los Angeles” which appears in California art supply advertising from about 1960-1963. We were unable to identify the production after an extensive search through contemporary theatre production trade magazines newspapers and other industry publications. n.p., hardcover
1943ref. 56139Newark NJ: A. Hollander & Sons Ltd. ca. 1943. Folio. 10 x 13 in. Sixteen photographic plates printed on thick paper stock preserved in illustrated printed portfolio in blue & white w/ white lettering & illust. on front cover die-cut window showing assorted fashions within tear to lower fore-edge of die-cut window flap minor edgewear slight creasing still VG copy w/ promotional brochure laid-in for Parisian Fur Coat Co. addressed Erb’s Fur Shop in Kelso WA. This scarce promotional advertising portfolio includes printed camera-ready photographs of Hollander Featherlite Persian fur coats from such notable furriers and fashion department stores as L.S. Ayres & Co. Furs by Robert in Detroit Roy H. Bjorkman in Minneapolis featuring a Chinese Mandarin style fur Jordan Marsh Neiman-Marcus Julius Garfinckel & Co. Bonwit Teller and even an image of Marguerite Chapman 1918-1999 former Powers model who starred in Appointment in Berlin and Destroyer 1943. A. Hollander & Co. was founded in 1889 by Albert Hollander who developed processes for creating soft and silky fur coats from less expensive furs and also for developing the “Hollanderizing” cleaning process immortalized in the 1950 Broadway musical Guys & Dolls which involved swirling minks and sable fur coats in drums full of sawdust & chemicals to clean them up for each season. A. Hollander & Sons, Ltd., unknown