18 811 résultats
1910réf. 56016New York & Tacoma: Samuel W. Peck & Co.; Dege & Milner Printed by Sherman & Bryan Inc. 1910. Sml. 4to. 16 pp unpaginated. Colour-illustrated borders & plates throughout with artwork reminiscent of children’s book illustrator Virginia Keep. Colour-illustrated softcovers cover art image of boys tossing down apples from a tree fine copy. First edition of this wonderfully illustrated fashion catalogue targeting the young boys in the decade before World War I. The illustrations depict young boys in knickers short coats and capes running carving Jack-o-Lanterns for Halloween playing with a dog and collecting chestnuts. This copy was printed for the Dege & Milner department store in downtown Tacoma which was operated from 1901-1915 by James H. Dege and his partner William Milner before Dege opened the James H. Dege Co. store. No copies located in Worldcat. Samuel W. Peck & Co.; Dege & Milner, (Printed by Sherman & Bryan, Inc.), paperback
1910réf. 56015New York & Tacoma: Alfred Benjamin & Co.; Dege & Milner 1910. 8vo. 16 pp unpaginated. Black & white plates throughout including double-page centerfold pen & ink reminiscent of work of Charles Dana Gibson. Colour-illustrated softcovers cover art of horse-drawn sleigh in the snow slight dustsoiling minor shelfwear still an excellent copy. First edition of this scarce and nicely illustrated catalogue for Alfred Benjamin & Co. fashions for men before World War I. Benjamin Clothes were famed during the opening two decades of the 20th Century for emphasizing their cosmopolitan styling and that they were wholly manufactured and tailored in New York of the highest quality. The plates show well-dressed Benjamin men on the steps of The Met next to the Franz Sigel Statue on Riverside Drive in front of their Brass Era automobile at The Abbey on Lafayette and more. This copy was printed for the Dege & Milner department store in downtown Tacoma which was operated from 1901-1915 by James H. Dege and his partner William Milner before Dege opened the James H. Dege Co. store. No copies located in Worldcat. Alfred Benjamin & Co.; Dege & Milner, paperback
réf. 33765Leipzig Koehler & Amelang 1968. 8° 212 S. 86 Abb. Kart. Tadell. 010 Leipzig, Koehler & Amelang, 1968 unknown
1874réf. 54872Boston: C.F. Hovey & Co. 1874. Folio. 13.5 x 11 in. 36 pp. 1 59 1 leaves. first 36 pp. incorporating title Memorandum pages several ALS letters and invoices on letterhead 8 pp. on graph paper w/ samples incorporated into the text 2 additional leaves of tissue thin manuscript copies from blotter 925 original fabric samples pinned-in glued-in and laid in sized from .5 x .5 in. up to 6 x 13 in. including a myriad of colours tartans plaids flannels silk blends cottons poplin cottons woolens etc. Original plum-coloured factory sample book purchased by Hovey from stationer P.L. Morin Paris who specialized in producing blank scrapbooks for factory sample cards printing & stationery registers w/ label mounted on front pastedown worn rubbing spine perished hinges loosed somewhat shaken still a remarkable unsophisticated exemplar preserved in folding case. This exceptional Victorian fabric sample order book assembled by a buyer for C.F Hovey & Co.’s fall fashion season furnishes an invaluable time capsule of colours textures and preferences in the 1870s. This era in women’s fashion driven by Parisian and other European design houses demanded extraordinary amounts of fabrics with an emphasis on the back of the skirt long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching. More significantly there was a tremendous growth in patterned poplin fabrics bright cotton & silk fabric blends as well as brilliant jewel colours. This order book with hundreds of different samples also offers a fantastic peek into the Victorian obsession with tartans and plaids driven by the mystique and example of Queen Victoria the ever-growing popularity with the historical romances of Sir Walter Scott celebrating the Highlanders and the poetry of Robert Burns. Tartan and plaid patterns were used in gowns dresses shawls veils hats purses and many fashion houses would often choose a particular clan pattern to celebrate and promote in their sales literature. Men’s suits coats and jackets were buttoned high on the chest the woolens became lighter weight and more durable as well of better quality and fashion designers for Hovey & Co. also incorporated rough finish woolens twills and tweeds into their clothing offered for sale. Many of the fabrics were also sold in Hovey & Co. fabric department in assorted lengths as well as ends for uses by Victorian women in home craft projects. Johnson focused on buying in the major wholesale textile dealers and markets of Europe during the 1870s including Stavert Tigomala & Co. one of the largest textile commission houses in Bradford UK; Firth Booth & Co. who specialized in bright cotton poplin plaids tartans wool blends and moire; Chamberlin Donner & Co. of Manchester one of the largest wholesale merchant houses shippers & traders in the British Empire; A. Van Bergen & Co. in Paris France whose beautifully patterned cotton and silk blends and woolens were enhanced by the award-winning dyes of Blanche at Puteaux; Les Fils de Th. Le Grand with wool blends twills and rough finish woolens. The sizes of the orders were remarkable and show the strength of Hovey’s customer base with one pair of invoices showing orders from Firth Booth & Co. totaling £ 7785 or over £ 855000 in present day value. However as evidenced by letter from Charles Kretschmann in Berlin who notes that Johnson in his June 24 1874 visit was “not pleased with the Berlin style of garments for this season and ordered only a very small lot”C.F. Hovey & Co. was founded by Charles Fox Hovey in 1833 as a dry goods merchant and with in a few years became a large department store located on Summer St. Through the years up to his death in 1859 he brought on many partners and was an ardent abolitionist and supporter of women’s rights establishing the Hovey Fund. After his death in 1859 Thomas Mack and Augustus De Puyster took over the running of the company and expansion through the Civil War. Johnson 1839-1927 was a Harvard grad clerk for Hovey & Co. and Civil War Veteran who rose from 1st Lieutenant in Co. H. Massachusetts 44th Infantry to Full Adjutant before mustering out right before Gettysburg. Hovey & Co. survived the massive fire of 1872 by employees soaking all the woolen blankets on the sales counters in water and placing over the roof and windows to protect the building from the flowing cinders expanded into store fronts on Chauncy and Avon Streets and was the first retailer to adopt the policy of requiring monthly payments on credit accounts. See: The History of the House of Hovey 1919; Charles Boston Looking Back at C.F. Hovey’s of Boston Shopping Days in Retro Boston May 6 2011; History of Fashion 1840-1900 Victoria and Albert Museum 2016. C.F. Hovey & Co., hardcover
1965réf. 54883Tilburg Holland & Thurles Ireland: Wolspinnerij “De Phoenix” n.v.; Phoenix Yarns Ireland Ltd. ca. 1965. Folio. 34 pp. on thick paper stock 7 of the leaves with gilt lettering specific weight colour information as well as warp & weft thread counts with 54 samples of spun wool yarns and finished woven fabrics tipped-in & mounted a number in bright vivid “Mod” colours. Original black 4-ring binder gilt lettering stamped on front cover leaves hole-punched at gutter margin minor shelfwear still an excellent copy. First edition thus of this beautiful and extremely scarce salesman sample catalogue for the splendid 1960s wool yarns and fabrics produced by the noted Dutch spinning mills. The Feitz’s founded the company in Tilburg in 1958 taking over the former textile firm of J.A. Blomjous in Tilburg and also quickly set up a yarn mill in Great Britain. However due to the high import duties the company was moved to Ireland by 1961 and through the popularity of their yarns and Taslan yarn textiles by the end of the 1960s were producing large quantities of high-end fabrics upholstery fabrics and interior decorating textiles for curtains and wall hangings. Their company focused on producing boucle yarns frotte yarns loops and other twisted fancy wool yarns and specialized knitting yarns. After the recession in the 1980s the company ceased woolen yarn production. No copies located in Worldcat. Wolspinnerij “De Phoenix” n.v.; Phoenix Yarns Ireland, Ltd., unknown
1950réf. 54848Cincinnati OH: The Melville Company ca. 1950. 4to. 39 8.5 x 11 in. fashion plates with 97 tipped-in fabric samples including cotton cotton blends cotton-rayon blends satin nylon for men & women’s fashions dresses lingerie pants suits skirts. order blank booklet preserved in original cardboard portfolio w/ company design logo on rear flap an excellent collection. First edition of this scarce and unusually complete salesman sample sales kit for women’s dresses fashions coats lingerie as well as men’s overcoats underwear & socks and even women’s outerwear rubber pocket books and overcoats in post-World War II America. The Melville Company was a coordinated direct-sales fashion company supplied by Harford Frocks Inc. which maintained a large mail order tailoring operation in Ohio from the early 1920s up through the 1970s employing 100s of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders together with J.C. Field & Son Inc. direct marketing firm. The company focused on “plus sizes” while maintaining how these fashions emphasized trim appearances survived on a constant sales force composed primarily of young women and house wives earning extra money willing to peddle door-to-door and created a high-quality product. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the explosion and impact of Christian Dior’s new designs reflecting the refined femininity with severely cinched waists extra padding to the hips longer and decidedly more romantic skirts and dresses as well as nicely fitted jacket-and-skirt tailored suits. Israel 1901-1991 built and ran this very successful mail order dressmaking operation which also owned the Fashion Frocks Dress Company as well and operated out of the Oesterlein Machine Company historic building in Cincinnati OH now home to the American Sign Museum. The Melville Company, unknown
1880réf. 54558Amsterdam: A. Jager ca. 1880. 12mo. 3.5 x 5.25 in. 12 hand-coloured albumen carte de visite images sized 2.25 x 3.5 in. mounted on thick 3 x 5 in. cards text in lower fore-edge of board bound in leporello accordion-style format linen hinges renewed. Original publisher’s decorated red cloth over beveled boards elaborate gilt decorated front cover and lettering minor rubbing edgewear minor bumping to corners still VG exemplar w/ most images retaining strong contrast and colour bookseller’s label of Joh. G. Stemler Cz. Algemeene Goekhandel Amsterdam on rear pastedown. Early printing of this charming photographic souvenir with hand-coloured albumen CDV photos illustrating the styles of folk costumes in different regions of the Netherlands. The villages and regions include Marken North Holland a fisherwoman carrying basket on her head from Scheveningen a fishing port a middle class orphan girl from Amsterdam a young girl wearing elaborate hat from Krommenie North Holland northeast of Haarlem. Jager 1825-1905 published many different series of these souvenir fashion photos as well as images of scenes in and around Amsterdam often as stereoviews some working with Dutch photographer Pieter Oosterhis. See: Maartje van den Heuvel The Rise of Dutch Landscape Photography. How a Vision of Painting Entered Photography Depth of Field Vol. 6 No. 1 July 2015. A. Jager, hardcover
1972réf. 54492Chicago & New York: Montgomery Ward Steinthal Sample Co. Inc. 1972. Folio. 13 x 11.5 in. 50 pp unpaginated. printed on Harvest Gold Avocado Green and blue tinted textured papers. Numerous fashion plates and fashion sketches throughout w/ 89 fabric samples tipped-in Carol Brent label mounted. Black vinyl metal spiral wire binding as issued gilt lettering and logo stamped on front cover rounded corners minor foxing to pastedowns otherwise an excellent copy. First edition of this scarce and fascinating salesman’s sample catalogue for men and women’s suits leisure wear and formal tuxedos offered by Montogmery Ward at the beginning of the 1970s. This line of clothing featured English fabrics from Herbert Gladson Inc. tailored portions by Imperial in New York some Jacquard fabrics from David H. Small Co. in New York assembled for tailored clothing bearing Carol Brent Lady Brummell and the Designer’s Showcase labels. The men’s suits feature the slim fit with early bell bottoms wide lapels loud and vivid colour linings reverse welt hip pockets cardigans and even matching belts. Women’s clothing featured flared skirts double-breasted suit coats belted coats five-button pantsuits and fly front topcoats. No copies located in Worldcat. Montgomery Ward, Steinthal Sample Co., Inc., hardcover
1895réf. 54146New York: Standard Fashion Company June 1895. 4to. 96 pp. 1 large folding colour chromolithograph frontisp. sized 21.5 x 10.75 in. 1 colour chromolithograph plate over 150 woodcut text illustrations & engravings. Gold-coloured printed softcovers brick-red lettering minor dustsoiling light wear to creases of folding frontisp. still VG copy. First edition of this scarce and beautifully printed fashion magazine which was published under this title only from 1894 through 1896 when it was forced to change the name to The Standard Designer after losing a lawsuit brought by the Butterick Publishing Co. against Frank Koewing d. 1933 their former western sales manager for Butterick. Founded in 1887 the Standard Fashion Co. would eventually become a serious rival to the Butterick Pattern Co. appropriating the “Delineator” for his magazine poaching employees and eventually building the company to issuing over 100000 cut patterns a week. While often facing bankruptcy and litigious to a fault the company was acquired as a subsidiary in 1900 by Butterick and the combined companies would thrive through the ensuing decades. Each of the Standard Delineator magazine issues featured a large chromolithograph frontispiece of the latest fashions as well as a smaller one of millinery designs. Worldcat locates primarily microfilm copies however individual issues are held by Notre Dame and Davidson College; See; A Man of the Hour Frank Koewing The Bookseller and Newsman Vol. 13 1896 pp. 4-5; Carol Ann Dickson Patterns for Garments: A History of the Paper Garment Pattern Industry in America 1979. Standard Fashion Company, paperback
1939réf. 53215New York: Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co. Departamento de Educacion January 1941; 1939. Two vols. 1st - Tall 8vo. 225 1 pp. Over 150 colour and black & white photo illustrations diagrams. Black textured softcovers gilt lettering & decoration printed on front cover edgewear bumping to corners minor soiling old tape repairs to front cover still G- copy; 2nd -- Oblong 4to. 12 x 7.75 in. 54 pp. on pink-tinted paper with 57 tipped-in fabric embroidered sewing samples including over on linen silk lace satin and wool textiles each w/ school stamp approving sample. Half-blue cloth post-binder over blue goards gilt lettering stamped on front cover sewn at gutter margin w/ white silk ribbon soiling minor dampstain curving to covers from the bulk of the tipped-in samples on the leaves still a VG exemplar. Both preserved in blue textured cardboard box & lid minor edgewear faint tidemark to lower fore-edge 1 corner. Fourth revised edition of this well-illustrated embroidery guide on stitches to be learned and executed on Singer Sewing Machines together with a beautifully done sample book showing Ms. Alos’ skills in learning the necessary skills in her Singer school in Villa Canas Argentina. The Singer Sewing Machine company developed special Singer Sewing Academia in Argentina Mexico and many other South American countries as well as Spain between the World Wars. These special private schools for professional dressmakers using the Singer manuals allowed female-owned dressmaking businesses to grow and create professional spaces separte from men. In addition these academias allowed women to pay by the class and embroidery was one of the advanced skills which commanded higher wages for women at the time. Singer actively encouraged this movement in order to develop home-based businesses and academias which in turn increased their sales of sewing machines. The sample book begins with a number of decorative types of embroidery stitches monograms and then displays floral patterns spider-web patterns laces a beautifully embroidered red roses and carnations on purple silks and satins. Worldcat locates 2 copies of the Libro Singer Bibliotecas del Tecnologico de Monterrey Mexico; British Library 3rd editions; See: Ketteler Sewing through the years in art women and society; Paula de la Cruz-Fernandez Atlantic Threads: Singer in Spain and Mexico 1860-1940 pp. 198-210. Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co., Departamento de Educacion, paperback
1924réf. 53221New York: The Charles William Stores Inc. 1924-1925. Two vols. 4to. 548 8; 518 8 pp. With numerous colour plates colour-tinted text illustrations over 1000 black & white text illustrations diagrams. Colour-illustrated softcovers minor soiling wear slight sunning front cover of vol. 1 creasing to spine; minor creasing shelfwear vol. 2 light uniform interior toning as usual still VG- set. First edition of the complete year of Jazz Age catalogues from the Charles William Stores which offered a treasure trove of everyday fashions work clothes and household and consumer goods during the Roaring 20s offering the glamour and style of New York to the rest of the country. Their fashions were intended for the average American with emphasis on the more “endowed” woman and “stout” man during the Jazz Age emphasizing chic styles and well-woven fabrics. These catalogues detail the high grade work pants riding breeches denim jeans corduroy work pants along with triple-sewed work denim overalls and coats which could be purchased as well as those made out of Wabash Stripe Stifel denim cloth noted for its durability. No copies located in Worldcat of Spring & Summer 1925; 3 copies located of Fall & Winter 1925 Henry Ford Harvard American Textile History Museum. The Charles William Stores, Inc., paperback
1939réf. 53220South Conventry CT & New York: The Tioga Yarn Company 1939. Folio. 86 2 pp. With over 60 photo plates all w/ facing knitting instructions. Colour-illustrated softcovers Tioga trademark cover art of women knitting in red & black minor dustsoiling edgewear minor creasing to lower right corner still VG- copy. First edition of this scarce yarn catalogue and instruction book including directions on specific yarn needs as well as necessary stitches for the sweaters and other projects featuring fashion designs by Perrin based on the Hollywood glamour of the 1930s. These fashions reflect the accentuated high waist designs intended for slim hips longer mid-calf or floor length hemline and wiode soldiers. However since most women were not blessed with slim hips and narrow waists shoulders were exaggerated ruffled sleeves and long flowing capes. Worldcat locates 2 copies Univ. of Illinois NYPL. The Tioga Yarn Company, paperback
1950réf. 52053Amsterdam: International Textiles 1950. Folio. 212 pp. With 100s of text illustrations plates diagrams photos many in colour 1 w/ tipped-in fabric sample of red velvet. Colour-illustrated softcovers cover art by Jean Colin showing the European dove of peace dangling a tailoring manikin below while flying over the Americas plexiglass spiral binding as issued minor shelfwear light soiling to fore-edges still VG copy. First edition of this very rare installment of this post-World War II fashion textiles trade magazine filled with advertising and articles detailing how Europe intended to wean itself off the Marshall Plan aid in order to rebuild. The article on Parisian fashion includes dress designs by Jean Desses Jacques Fath Pierre Balmain and others. There is a remarkable article on seersucker patterns offered for the 1951 season by Cloques which includes photos of the actual factory sample catalogue leaves showing patterns and tipped-in fabric swatches. In addition there are lavish advertisements and beautifully illustrated articles filled with fashion window displays from the Swiss Industries Fair in 1950 revealing the tremendous explosion of Mid-Century Modern designs out of European fashion design houses. International Textiles, paperback
1911réf. 52192Paterson NJ Allentown PA Williamsport PA Dundee Lake NJ: National Silk Dyeing Company 1911. 8vo. 4 leaves of thick card stock bound in accordion-style format which fold out into 9 x 25.5 in panorama with 178 tipped-in colour skein silk samples in rainbow of colours a few discontinued colours removed along with their inventory numbers. Black cloth gilt lettering on front cover metal snap closure minor shelfwear some rubbing still G reference copy. First edition thus of this excellent sample catalogue filled with dyed silk thread samples including such Edwardian colour names as Desdoux Aloes Salambo Eclipse Champignon Glycine Pistache Oseille Cuite Myrthe and Matelot. The National Silk Dyeing Company began life as the Auger & Simon Silk Dyeing Works which was moved to Paterson in 1884 and grew quickly during the Victorian era but in 1908 Charles Auger chose to merge operations with five other Paterson NJ dye works forming the National Silk Dyeing Company. They would enter bankruptcy during the Great Depression. Worldcat locates 1 copy of 1913 Dyeing catalogue Brooklyn Museum. National Silk Dyeing Company, hardcover
1953réf. 52352Boston: Houghton Mifflin Co. 1953. 8vo. 86 2 pp. Illustrated half-title illustrated title page numerous text illustrations & plates 3 colour plates colour-illustrated endpapers. Blue-green coloured cloth illust. of doll in yellow holding parasol on front cover yellow lettering on spine very minor shelfwear minor rubbing & very slight bumping to lower corners w/ d.j. cover art of fashion doll by Bannon minor chipping head & foot of spine wear to corners minor rubbing upper corner clipped $ 2.25 price written in lower corner in pencil VG/VG copy. First edition of this remarkably rare and beloved children’s book surrounding the mystery and treasurer hunt for a 19th-century fashion doll in Peterborough NH by a young girl hidden by her ancestor in a secret room. Fashion dolls also called Queen Anne Dolls were often made of wood plaster or bisque with a fashionable hairstyle in flax or wool and dressed in miniature clothes showcasing the latest couture of the day. The most desirable dolls in the 19th-century were the French bisque dolls distributed all over Europe and were originally modeled on teen girls or adult women although these eventually changed over into child like bisque doll babies which would dominate the market from the 1860s onward. Bannon 1895-1963 was inspired to write this work while staying at the famed MacDowell Art Colony in Peterborough NH which carried a legend of a secret room in the MacDowell farmhouse. Original copies of this work have become quite scarce especially first editions. Houghton Mifflin Co., hardcover
1911réf. 51747England: n.p. 1911. Tall 8vo. 5 pp. on thick card stock printed in gilt & black 7 x 10.24 in. with 240 vegetable ivory buttons all with stock numbers below and to the side many in the dark brown patterned material some jet black and many with incised or woven patterns each page with padded pink silk leaves to protect the buttons each of the cards has some contemporary ink annotations below the buttons or along the side in the margins. Quarter-black calf over black pebbled cloth gilt lettering & design on front cover spine minor chipping & tearing to head of spine affecting lettering slight shelfwear still a VG- exemplar with the buttons entirely complete and in perfect condition. First edition of this very scarce and beautiful Edwardian button sample catalogue. Included are a number of different styles of buttons in vegetable ivory for clothing coats sportswear and more which were sold by this English manufacturer for export. Vegetable Ivory is a very dense material that is manufactured into buttons from the Corozo nut that grows on the Tague Tree a type of Palm. It was named Vegetable Ivory in the 19th Century because it resembles real ivory but was not as heavy or dense. These types of buttons were first introduced at the 1862 International Exhibition in England and then reached full popularity at the 1867 Paris Exposition. The sample buttons preserved here come in pressed carved and fine lined patterns some of them painted with a dark flat black other shiny black and many with a beautiful rich shiny mottled effect. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods and prior to the growth in production and popularity these were the buttons of choice for men’s suits. No copies located in Worldcat. n.p.], hardcover
1911réf. 51748France: n.p. 1911. Tall 8vo. 6 leaves on thick card stock printed in gilt & black 7 x 11 in. with 369 black silk & vegetable ivory buttons all with stock numbers below and to the side many in the dark brown patterned material some jet black and many with incised or woven patterns each sample card carefully mounted within corners with facing padded red silk leaves to protect the buttons many with ink annotations indicating whether they were available in stock or not. Quarter-black cloth over purple patterned cloth gilt lettering on front cover spine very minor rubbing at the hinges slight bumping to corners still a NF exemplar with the buttons entirely complete and in perfect condition. First edition of this remarkably beautiful Edwardian button sample catalogue which are exceedingly scarce in such exceptional condition. Included are a number of different styles of buttons in vegetable ivory for clothing coats sportswear and more which were sold by this French manufacturer for export together with a number of beautifully woven black silk cloth buttons for women’s coats hats and dresses. Vegetable Ivory is a very dense material that is manufactured into buttons from the Corozo nut that grows on the Tague Tree a type of Palm. It was named Vegetable Ivory in the 19th Century because it resembles real ivory but was not as heavy or dense. These types of buttons were first introduced at the 1862 International Exhibition in England and then reached full popularity at the 1867 Paris Exposition. The sample buttons preserved here come in pressed carved and fine lined patterns some of them painted with a dark flat black other shiny black and many with a beautiful rich shiny mottled effect. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods and prior to the growth in production and popularity these were the buttons of choice for men’s suits. No copies located in Worldcat. n.p.], hardcover
1925réf. 50606New York: A. Koenigsberg 648 Broadway ca. 1925. 8vo. 12 pp. Photo illustrated throughout colour-tinted centerfold. Colour-illustrated softcovers model wearing a stylish hat printed in red & black stapled as issued sewn through punch hole at head of spine w/ gold silk braid slight shelfwear 1 very small closed tear at fore-edge front cover still VG copy. First edition of this very scarce and beautiful catalogue of hat frames and hat bases for millinery shops during the 1920s. The company could supply for hat designers Zibeline hatters plush hats Lyons Velvet Brims Satins Velours Ribbon bound fur and felt hats as well as millinery supplies and hat boxes. Koenigsberg b. 1889 emigrated from England in 1889 to New York where he worked as a furrier for many years with his father Wolf before setting up his own successful millinery supply shop and 4200 square foot factory which successfully operated until the Great Depression. After his shop closed Koenigsberg moved into selling pin ball machines. No copies located in Worldcat; See: New York State Industrial Bulletin of the Department of Labor 1921 Vol. 1 p. 171. A. Koenigsberg, 648 Broadway, paperback
1910réf. 50389Baltimore MD: Federal Tailoring Co. Baltimore & Carey Streets ca. 1910. Tall 8vo. 6 x 11 in. 30 pp unpaginated on thick cream-coloured stock w/ 47 tipped-in worsted serge wool blend and felt samples all w/ printed black borders & stock numbers. Black embossed cloth gilt lettering on front cover lettering in blind on back cover blind-stamped ruling bound in accordion-style flexible binding w/ each leaf mounted on hinge occasional minor loss and slight insect predation to a few samples still a VG bright copy. First edition of this scarce Edwardian salesman sample catalogue for men’s suits trousers and wool winter jackets. Federal Tailoring Co. was a consortium of several Jewish-American tailoring wholesalers located across from the Drovers & Mechanics National Bank in Baltimore. The woolen samples contained within this catalogue were patterns intended for suits suits & trousers and winter coats of the Baltimore working class at the beginning of the 20th century with heavier weaves courser wool blends and more neutral colour palate focusing on dark blues tans browns some grays. No copies located in Worldcat. Federal Tailoring Co., Baltimore & Carey Streets, hardcover
1888réf. 48840Paris: Grande Maison de Blanc ca. 1888. 12mo. 42 pp unpaginated. Colour chromolithograph illustrated title 18 colour chromolith plates. Dark green silk gilt lettering on front cover very minor soiling edgewear front cover rear inner hinge starting still a VG bright copy stapled textblock as issued. First edition of this delightfully produced and illustrated history of gloves through the ages. These include descriptions of mesh gloves used by the Egyptians metal gauntlets used by Roman gladiators gloves to keep warm by monks during the Middle Ages leather gloves to protect the hands and arms of the falconer fencing gloves beautiful silk & lace gloves for noblewomen at the courts of Louis XV and Louis XVI and riding gloves for women during the Second Empire of Napoleon III and finally the Belle Epoque. Grande Maison de Blanc was a renowned firm in Paris during the Belle Epoque who were especially proud of selling French-manufactured gloves linens cravats and other household goods at a discount compared to many other stores at the time. They were pioneers in not only producing their own products in house by maintaining factories in Tarare Lille Fives and other areas around France but pushing other suppliers to offer steep wholesale discounts. Worldcat locates 2 copies NYU Princeton. Grande Maison de Blanc, hardcover
1911réf. 48842Cincinnati OH: Goldman Beckman & Co. 1911. Elephant folio. 21 x 18 x 1.75 in. 50 pp unpaginated printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. 17 colour plates 1 page w/ colour-illustrated borders 8 black & white plates with 150 mounted textile samples in wool wool worsted blends some felt backed moleskin cashmere and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability many with damage from insecty predation occasional soot soiling soiling to fore-edges many of the images with illustrations of models in period dress in backgrounds and around borders. Half-black cloth over green gilt lettering and embossing of Company logo on front cover illustrated endpapers with the different suit models on pastedowns occasional soot soiling foxing minor dustsoiling from fabric dust cloth covers renewed w/ original company logo & title mounted front cover still a G copy entirely complete with all samples present. First edition of this scarce salesman sample fashion catalogue for men’s suits in the Edwardian era prior to World War I. Goldman Beckman & Co. was owned by Louis Goldman 1850-1921 who had founded the firm in 1894 after decades in the wholesale suit tailoring business marketing to men & young men. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles men’s clubs and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor in the Cincinnati area. This catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the Progressive Era. Many of the plates show elegantly dressed men and women in the park the flower show at the museum playing sports and even preparing to go on a canal boat. In addition there are a number of plates showing properly cut trousers and the available cuts special sections devoted to fancy cuffs and pockets fitted backs men’s hats formal wear and much more. No copies located in Worldcat. Goldman, Beckman & Co., hardcover
1915réf. 48533Paris & Chicago: Geo. F. Crowley & Co. 1-3 West 37th St. 1915. Oblong folio bifolium portfolio 14.5 x 7 in. when closed 14.5 x 14 in. when opened. 54 original silk sample swatches including silk velvet & velveteen with all of them attached at upper-fore-edge each w/ printed label at lower corner identifying inventory no. printed price-list below samples. Purple cloth decorative gilt lettering & decoration inside above and below the samples slight wear minor dustsoiling to fore-edges still VG copy w/ silk braid to hang the advertising piece. First edition of this very scarce and beautiful Edwardian silk salesman sample advertising piece. This sample catalogue offers an incredible historical reference for the vibrancy and tremendous variety of silk velvets velveteens and rich fabrics before World War I for American fashion. Most of these silks and silk velvets were intended for the high fashion industry at the time encompassing dresses gowns capes scarves hats ties and much more. No copies located in Worldcat. Geo. F. Crowley & Co., 1-3 West 37th St., hardcover
1900réf. 48322Troy NY: Cluett Peabody & Co. Makers ca. 1900. Painted tin sign w/ black lettering 19 x 14 in. mounted in original quarter-sawn oak frame 24 x 18 in. with the advertising logo painted in black lettering minor scuffing to lettering very minor rust spotting and blue-tinted patina to sign still a VG- example. A wonderful advertising display for Monarch Shirts which originally came out of a Carlton Oregon general store which at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th century also sold men’s clothing accessories and shoes. George Bywater Cluett 1838-1912 and Frederick Forrest Peabody 1858-1927 were pioneers in the shirt & replaceable collar industry in Troy NY who created the iconic Arrow brand detachable Collars and shirts. They formed their company from Cluett & Sons to Cluett Peabody & Co. in 1899 and rapidly grew their business by providing women with an easier way to clean their husbands’ stained shirt collars without having to wash the entire shirt. In addition the collars wore out a much faster rate than the rest of the shirts so these replaceable collars would extend the life of the garments. Monarch shirts were famed for their durability and patented their Patent Bound Bosom Shirt which became known to consumers across the country as the Monarch Shirt. In 1905 the company launched the iconic campaign for Arrow Shirts with the famed illustrations by Joseph Leyendecker which ran for over 25 years. Various Cluett divisions maintained offices and showrooms in New York through 2002 and then in 2004 the Arrow Shirt brand was acquired by Phillips-Van Heusen Corp. Cluett, Peabody & Co., Makers, hardcover
1945réf. 47397New York: Rosecliff-Quaker 1239 Broadway 1945. Folding sample case portfolio divided into 3 panels w/ flap and snap closure -- 5 x 8.5 x 1.5 in. when folded up; 18.5 x 8.5 when opened up. The left panel with brochure for Firm-edge comfort collar; right hand panel with 7 leaves with 38 cotton gabardine ascot twill Siltex and other blends; center panel with 52 cotton blend & broadcloth samples divided into 5 sections with colour-printed covers. Sample case binding is pebbled black cloth rivets on center panel verso snap for flap 1 minor scuff on flap hinge minor soiling to a few samples hinge repaired still a G copy. First edition of this exceedingly scarce and imaginative salesman sample case for men’s shirts and sport shirts with man in golf shirt on front cover of right hand sample catalogue. The wonderfully engineered catalogues mounted in the folding case display beautifully. Rosecliff-Quaker was best known for their men’s shirts with firm-edge comfort collars and Sanforized or double shrunk so the shirts would not shrink after purchase. The company was founded in 1895 and retained an active sales force for their shirts for years. No copies located in Worldcat. Rosecliff-Quaker, 1239 Broadway, hardcover
1920réf. 47418Milwaukee WI: Adler Compay ca. 1920. Large image mounted on thick card stock 14 x 22 in. Colour lithograph decorative arts & crafts border nice colours varnished some minor edgewear lettering at borders slightly cropped in order for counter display to be cut to standard size very minor soiling lower fore-edge some yellowing from varnish still VG exemplar. A vivid and scarce counter advertising display for Adler Company Collegian men’s suits line. The Collegian line was for college men and any man who cared about perfect style with points of refinement. Although their advertising was not specifically collegiate their advertising campaigns often employed illustrations that conjured idealized college associations implying that if one were to buy their ready-to-wear suits then they too would be successful in college business and the appropriate middle class lifestyle. This advertisement offers a beautiful example of Jazz Age advertising. The Adler Company was founded in 1848 by Solomon Adler in Milwaukee Wisconsin and grew and thrived through the Civil War the Victorian era and eventually would employ over 900 people with nationwide sales in the 1920s over one and one-half million dollars. During the Jazz Age the Adler Company was synonymous with their Collegian line. The company was liquidated after the crash in 1929. See: Daniel Clark Creating the College Man American Mass Magazines and Middle-Class Manhood pp. 165-168; Historic Designation Study Report Emanuel D. Adler House pp. 5-6. Adler Compay, unknown
