Candace K Sleeman Charles J ModeBiblio.com
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réf. 650463919World Scientific Publishing Company Incorporated . Hardback. New. pp. 696 World Scientific Publishing Company, Incorporated hardcover
1905réf. 62191St. Paul MN: McKibbin Driscoll & Dorsey Broadway and Fifth Streets St. Paul Printing Co. 1905. Tall 8vo. 27 1 pp. With text illustrations photo illustrations throughout. Gray decorated softcovers Arts & Crafts cover art & lettering in blue factory & warehouse & offices depicted on back cover small hole punch at upper left corner w/ gray silk braid as issued minor chipping to couple corners minor age-toning to fore-edges still a VG- copy. First edition of this surprisingly scarce Progressive-Era catalogue for the storied company founded originally in 1888 by McKibbin 1856-1941. This catalogue offers McKibbin Stiff Hats bowlers soft-brimmed Western hats such as the Columbia Dakota Manitoba & Railroad along with several Fedora hats. Advertised as well is an interesting novelty called the “Pin Wheel Hat” which were marketed in a round box rolled up and sold by the dozen for $ 4.50. Ladies and young women’s hats are included gloves sheep-lined coats and more. McKibbin was an orphaned self-made business man who managed to attend Princeton and Western University before moving to St. Paul where he eventually launched the business in 1888 which he sold in 1926 to T.W. Stevenson Manufacturing. No copies in Worldcat; See: David Pierce Joseph McKibbin Sept. 27 2014 & Men of Minnesota 1902 p. 372. McKibbin, Driscoll & Dorsey, Broadway and Fifth Streets, [St. Paul Printing Co.], paperback
1940réf. 61451New York: Cohama Cravats United Merchants & Manufacturers 1412 Broadway 1940. Atlas folio. 13 x 18 in. 34 pp unpaginated. printed on thick tan paper stock with 21 different tipped-in advertising promotional samples including camera-ready newspaper ads sample window & counter display cards and folded promotional brochures for mailing each to be imprinted with the retailer’s name order book tucked into rear pocket mounted on last leaf. Tan boards plastic-comb binding to spine minor bumping to couple corners some dustsoiling minor chipping to foot of spine still a VG bright exemplar. First edition of this exceedingly scarce sales and advertising catalogue designed to present the 1940 plan by the company for their $ 1.00 men’s cravat ties. Featured are the proposed newspaper ad lines for the six different Cohama Cravats in the Spring & Summer including the Briar Bahama Camelot Rangoon Gamester and Seminole. American tie manufacturing emerged as a significant force at the end of the Jazz Age and through the 1930’s as their popularity grew world wide for their heavy use of colours vivid patterns and breaking away from the more sedate colour palate of the British tie industry. Contributing to the explosion of tie manufacturing in the 1930s and 1940s were the need by many men during the Great Depression and then the War years to change their fashion look by adding a decorative tie rather than buying a new suit or set of clothes. The Duke of Windsor heavily influenced ties styles and wearers by not only developing the Windsor knot but also wearing them with many different types of clothing. Cohama was a trademark of United Merchants which was a textile firm originally founded in 1912 as the Cohn-Hall-Marx Co. merging with United Merchants in 1928 and later clothing chains across the East and South through World War II. No copies located in Worldcat; See: Gibbings The tie trends and traditions 1990. Cohama Cravats, United Merchants & Manufacturers, 1412 Broadway, hardcover
1942réf. 61064Brooklyn NY: Barbara Duffy ca. 1942-1945. Seven pieces of original pen & ink art and gouache colouring and overpainting sized from 10 x 15 in. 3 up to 15 x 20 in. 3 on “Winsor & Newton’s Illustration Board 30 x 40” while the 7th piece is 9 x 17 in. executed on textured thick laid-paper pencil annotations in MS on fore-edges all pieces signed in thick black pen on versos some dustsoiling staining to fore-edges to a couple bumping to corners edgewear still a VG set of well-done exemplars. These original fashion design illustrations encompass women’s dresses hats fur coats evening wear and a post-War design by Mangone. The two dresses drawn by Duffy are reminiscent of the Claire McCardell easy to wear and comfortable dresses which emerged at the end of the War and featured a cinched-in waist floppy collars and padded shoulders retaining the influence of men’s tailoring on women’s fashions during the War. The “Toppers” are splendid examples of box or swagger coats often made in light wool cotton or rayon blends and in this case with fetching hats and cinched-in waists. The two smaller designs with mink or beaver coats include one with a matching purse and the other with a pillbox hat. The two “Paris” style Cloche hats are nicely drawn and one is fitted with a mesh veil. The exceptional Mangone design indicates it was “Sketched at Mangone’s” which was probably one of the frequent sessions the designer would put on fashion shows at the Fashion Institute or local boutiques in and around New York following World War II and features a coat trimmed in beaver fur with Cloche hat and according to Duffy was available in light and dark wool along with an ascot. Mangone 1884-1957 was not only a significant Italian-American designer who quickly adapted Paris fashion trends into his own American style and was very popular from before World War I until after World War II. Strikingly he also was a survivor of the Hindenburg disaster who managed to leap from the Zeppelin at Lakehurst NJ with his daughter and grand-daughter looking on suffering significant burns and after shock and hospitalization spent considerable time recovering. Duffy b. 1919 taught at the Jacob Gould Vocational School for girls in Prospect Park Brooklyn NY from the time she left college until after World War II after which she worked as designer in local department stores and then disappears from census and public records. Barbara Duffy, unknown
1955réf. 61063Los Angeles CA: K. Jo ca. 1955. Folio. 14 x 18 in. Original pen & ink w/ gouache colouring on studio board initials of artist at lower right corner edgewear & chipping to corners fore-edges still a VG- exemplar. This delightful artwork mock-up for a Vogue fashion advertising counter display featuring a stylish black chenille silk yarn cocktail dress with the model sporting a short haircut hoop earrings and white evening gloves. The same model is shown wearing a beret and chenille wool/rayon fabric evening coat double-breasted pinch waist and gloves. K. Jo the unidentified artist has left the banner blank which would have included in the printed version the day & time of either the fashion display or of the possible patterns. This cataloguer could find no information on the original artist and two possible references to cover art designs for Vogue in 1951 and 1953. K. Jo, unknown
réf. 0244958483.Gpaperback. Good. Access codes and supplements are not guaranteed with used items. May be an ex-library book. paperback
1926réf. 58100New York & Chicago: J.L. Taylor & Co. 1926. Thick elephant folio 17 x 23.25 x 2.5 ins. 75 3 pp. printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. With 17 colour fashion plates illustrating Taylor styles of the period verso of almost all pages with 364 of 375 mounted textile samples in wool wool-rayon blends some felt backed silk moleskin corduroy cashmere waistband sample and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability some of the 12 missing samples are indicated in pencil as being “Out” as well as a few present 1 additional pinned-in numerous illustrations throughout in blue-green colour tinting including Chicago & New York factories some diagrams charts and graphs. Original half-green cloth over gray green cloth corners gilt lettering on front cover colour plate w/ J.L. Taylor tailor mounted front cover some wear & minor bumping to fore-edges corners some minor soiling & occasional foxing to interior leaves -- some of it dust from the wool samples 10-15 samples with minor deterioration and evidence of old predation still a very good unsophisticated and remarkably complete example w/ original 9 x 21 in. double-sided stock list in red & black laid-in. First edition of this scarce and unusually complete salesman sample catalogue for Jazz era men’s suits in 1928-1929. J.L. Taylor maintained a huge tailoring operation in both Chicago and New York until after World War II employing hundreds of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor for two years or more. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of F. Scott Fitzgerald and the Flappers. Most of the colour fashion plates illustrating the available styles have elegantly dressed women and settings in the background including with an emphasis on sporting in summer so golf tennis croquet canoeing boating and swimming all make an appearance. Of particular interest is the wonderful dress chart indicating styles needed clothes accessories and shoes which one would need for Day Wedding Matinee Reception Evening Dress and many others offering an excellent marketing opportunity for the store to sell the customer items to compliment his suits overcoats and other fashion wear ordered from J.L. Taylor. The final plate focuses on the lightweight “Palm Beach” & “Mohair” suits at the height of the 1920’s boom in Florida featuring snappily dressed models in Panama straw hats and a lightweight fedora. Worldcat locates 1 partial copy Preserved at the Library of Congress stripped of samples and used as scrapbook for Wilbur’s Drug Store prescriptions of Portland ME -- not an unusual occurrence. J.L. Taylor & Co., hardcover
1930réf. 58140Paris Vienna New York et al: Societe Graphique S.A. Editions de Mode Classique Modes Co. Importers of Fashions 303 Fifth Ave. ca. 1930. Folio. 9 x 13 in. IV pp. leaves as V-XX hand-coloured pochoir plates 2 pp. pattern cutting plates. Quarter-embossed gold foil over pink printed softcovers gilt & black decorative lettering minor shelfwear slight bumping to corners rubbing still a VG copy. First edition of this beautifully coloured collection of haute couture Parisian fashion dress designs by Lucien LeLong 1889-1958. Lelong was a contemporary designer alongside Chanel Vionnet Molyneux Lanvin & Patou focusing on designing for cafe society during the 1920’s and 1930’s. These designs emphasize Lelong Schiaparelli and Vionnet’s move towards a more sophisticated and elegant feminine silhouette during the 1930’s with hemlines dropped to mid-calf or close to the ankle soft slim-fitting dresses and backless evening gowns. Classique Modes also distributed other similar pochoir-illustrated fashion design periodicals such as Paris Chic Elite Robes elegantes Iris and others. The final 2 plates No copies in Worldcat. Societe Graphique S.A., Editions de Mode, Classique Modes Co., Importers of Fashions, 303 Fifth Ave., paperback
1953réf. 58213Seattle WA: Nancy Paine ca. 1953-54. Twenty-one original fashion design watercolour paintings all oblong folio 9 sized 15 x 12 in.; 12 sized 18 x 15 in. 1 is painted title only many of them signed by Nancy down in lower corner 1 graded and reviewed by teacher several with neat cursive annotations some curling minor edgewear to corners some toning still VG set with the 2nd set retaining the original portfolio cover sheet. These original watercolour fashion designs reflect the 1950’s emphasis on full circle skirts swing skirts pencil skirts tea length dresses and fitted tight waist blouses reflecting the influence of Christian Dior towards increased femininity in the post-World War II era. For the College Coed portfolio our young artist has included designs for Capri pants lingerie fitted wool dresses flowing “poodle” skirts bathing suits tennis outfit ice skating clothing riding outfits and evening wear. The second portfolio incorporates diamond pattern one-piece bathing suits terrycloth robes different evening weather and nighttime negligee. Although young Miss Paine would not go onto becoming a commercial artist she did work as office manager for many years for the Simpson Lumber Company. Nancy Paine, hardcover
1930réf. 57289Nottingham UK: Vida Mills Jones Stroud & Co. Ltd. ca. 1930. Thick 8vo. 26 pp unpaginated. on thick card stock w/ burgundy linen hinges at gutter margin w/ 113 rayon elastic nylon elastic rubber and silk rayon blend trims 1 silver gelatin frontisp. photo mounted on front pastedown sized 3.5 x 5.5 in. w/ 10 colour-printed & illustrated labels and elastic holders tipped-in numerous printed photographic plates. Quarter-burgundy coloured cloth over simulated alligator boards screw posts at gutter margin minor rubbing slight bumping to corners 1 sample removed still a VG copy. First edition thus of this extraordinary and inventive salesman sample catalogue for elastic trims between the Wars. Horace Jones had invented a specialized braiding machine in 1927 for creating elastics by braiding rubber filaments together with rayon nylon cotton or silk-rayon blends to create a number of different “Elastic” Boil Proof Vida trims. Prior to the widespread introduction of many stretchable and elastic fabrics following World War II Vida Mills products were used shoulder straps for lingerie suspenders both for men and women’s fashions swim trunk and briefs trunk top elastic bands. In addition these were used for car covers bags accessories creating pleats sleeve hems and much more. In addition there are a number of samples included here for durable boot and shoe laces. The coloured and metallic Ric Rac trims were used in costumes uniforms decorative elements on clothing and many other applications. By 1930 the company had deployed 3000 braiding machines generating over 52 million yards of elastic braid annually and in 1940 expanded into manufacturing glass tapes and woven fabrics for electrical installations and industrial Wartime applications. The company still operates today as the Jones Stroud Insulations Ltd. subsidiary of the Krempel Group since 2000. No copies in Worldcat; See: History of Jones Stroud Insulations -- Timeline Krempel 2015; Trade Marks Ordinance Official Gazette Kenya Dec. 4 1956 p. 1315. Vida Mills, Jones Stroud & Co., Ltd., hardcover
1927réf. 57311Graz Austria: Richard Neurath Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21 1927. Two vols. 1st - Folio. 11 x 13.75 in. 45 1 pp. on thick boards. With 246 tipped-in fabric samples of wools wool blends 27 fashion plate illustrations 2 for women’s coats w/ price list and letter to salesmen dated August 1927. Original quarter-black cloth over embossed & decorated boards flaps at fore-edges w/ handle and clasp raised gilt lettering on front cover minor shelfwear rubbing clasp guard repaired & reinforced still VG complete exemplar retaining the original button clasp; together with 4to. 8.25 x 11.25 in. 4 pp unpaginated. w/ 16 additional wool and wool-blend samples tipped-in self-printed covers rounded corners. First edition of this unusually rare fashion salesman sample catalogue for men’s suits and sporting wear during the Roaring 20’s with many of the suits sporting vests while also featured are shooting & hiking suits sportswear and a rich array of fabrics drawing upon English fashion designs. Following World War I there was a concerted move away from starched collars and formal three-piece suits towards soft collars one- or two-button suit jackets and even often worn without a waistcoat. Also featured in this catalogue are many examples of the plus-fours developed out of ordinary knickers these short-legged pants were a baggier version of their predecessors and proved popular for hikers golfers and other outdoors activities. Also featured are winter coat fabrics and designs for women in velour and thick felt twill. The laid-in additional catalogue promoted the latest Loden Merino wool fabrics and thick camel hair woolens. Neurath 1882-1948 operated a successful mail-order tailoring business until the 1938 Anschluss when the Nazi’s annexed Austria and forced the April 10 plebiscite. He survived the War and later died in Tel Aviv Israel in 1948. The building which housed his offices and tailoring facilities in Graz is now the home of the popular Cafe Kaiserfeld. No copies in Worldcat. Richard Neurath, Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21, hardcover
1959réf. 56594New York & Rochester NY: Grace Line Harper’s Bazaar & Eastman Chemical Products subsidiary of Eastman Kodak 1959. 4to. With 33 black & white photographs inserted in mylar sleeves. Recent flexible black vinyl cover portfolio NF exemplar w/ images having bright strong contrast. First edition of this remarkably scarce group of photos advertising the 1959 fashionable swimsuits made from Chromspun acetate yarn developed for textiles by Eastman Kodak in the early 1950s. Discovered while developing cigarette filters the yarn proved durable and elastic enough for swimsuits other apparel home furnishings and other applications. The swimsuits modeled in this show were influenced by and possibly included the very popular Rose Marie Reid line of swimwear which was heavily marketed by Harper’s Bazaar during the 1940s and 1950s and was considered to be the quintessential California swimsuit worn by such stars as Jane Russell and Sandra Dee in the first Gidget movie produced by Columbia in 1959. Represented in these photos are the swimsuits included the strapless bikini princess bubble Baby Doll often with stripes and cover-ups. Although not indicated in the photographs this fashion show was probably held on one of the new Grace Line ocean liners the Santa Rosa which was delivered in 1958 and serviced the Caribbean South America and traveled through The Saint Lawrence Seaway into the Great Lakes. See: Rose Marie Reid Glamour by Design Special Collections Exhibit Brigham Young University 2015-2016; Michael Grace The Grace Line History Cruising the Past Travel and Social History 2009; Jean Was a “Young American Goddess of Paris Couture” Jean Patchett Prose on Genesis 2020. Grace Line, Harper’s Bazaar, & Eastman Chemical Products, subsidiary of Eastman Kodak, unknown
1937réf. 54988Chicago: Ferris Woolen Co. Successor to Detmer Brewer & Mason Wawak Co. Inc. 1937. Sample case. 27.75 x 11 x 7.5 in. Containing 172 thick cards w/ black & red advertising lettering stock & style Nos. with 172 woolens worsted wool imported wool samples some preshrunk all mounted on the cards. Original sample display case w/ green textured cloth over boards divided into 3 compartments nickel plate slider hinges printed advertising on inner lid and drop front reinforced corners some minor wear insect predation around fore-edges of a few samples still a remarkable display case from the John the Tailor Shop Suits and Overcoats made to order Wausau WI w/ stamp on top Wawak sample card. First edition of this spectacular tailoring sample counter display for men’s suits and overcoats in the Fall & Winter of 1937-1938. Ferris Woolen Company a subsidiary of Wawak Woolens was originally founded in 1922 in Chicago along with Detmer Woolen Co. Bruner Woolen Co. Mason & Hanson Inc. and Salter & Wolf to supply woolens & trimmings to tailors and department stores across the United States. The companies were known for their high-quality wools at a reasonable price and often incorporated imported wool wool silk blends gabardines and tweeds especially from Scotland Wales France and Great Britain. In 1933 the Wawak Co./Ferris Woolen Co. purchased the exclusive right to all the Detmer Bruner Co. customers West of the Mississippi. They quickly began commissioning and producing display cases reflecting the change and proved very successful with the Ferris Woolen Co. catering to the trade into the 1960s. These sample cases were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these display on the sales floor for two seasons or more often adding or subtracting fabrics as they became available. The samples included with this case offer invaluable textile reference for the colours and fabrics during the era of fashion influenced by the elegance and glamor of Hollywood films and film noir at the time. The styles depicted on the inside of the lid and the drop-down front are reminiscent of the very popular Thin Man fashions worn by William Powell and Myrna Loy at the time. No copies located in Worldcat. Ferris Woolen Co., Successor to Detmer, Brewer & Mason, Wawak Co., Inc., hardcover
réf. 4938586142.Ghardcover. Good. Access codes and supplements are not guaranteed with used items. May be an ex-library book. hardcover
réf. 45396805-nnew. unknown
réf. ria9781501391422_inpPaperback / softback. New. New Book; Fast Shipping from UK; Not signed; Not First Edition; N/A paperback
réf. 648027803Springer . Papeback. New. pp. 412 Springer unknown
1990réf. BN513452Tübingen / Wasmuth 1990. 1990. Rene Gruau. Rene Gruau. Mode - Gilles de Bure Tübingen / Wasmuth unknown
réf. 0571525776.Gsheet_music. Good. Access codes and supplements are not guaranteed with used items. May be an ex-library book. unknown
réf. OJ-H9DM-4C01Audio CD. Very Good. 1993 Release. GEMA. Running time 60:34 Flawless Disc in original rubbed case. Quick Daily Shipping with Tracking! L-12A unknown
1895réf. 046612New York: Standard Fashion Company 1895. Original issue of this magazine devoted to women's fashion. Includes four color lithographed plates three of dresses one of hats and additional black and white half-tone plate with a woman on a bicycle wearing the combination bicycle skirt and trousers. Also features dozens of other fashions in engravings. Softcover 112 pages. Generally good condition with cover wear and chipping to the extremities binding sound occasional edgewear to pages pages clean no names or other markings. Soft Cover. Good. 4to - over 9¾" - 12" tall. Standard Fashion Company Paperback
1964réf. 454511964. MODE Peter G. Source Book & Bibliographical Guide for American Church History. Boston 1964. Reprint of original 1921 edition. Limited to 500 copies. unknown
1954réf. 030551London: Dept of Education of the International Wool Secretariat 1954. Fourteen booklets. Attendee's name to each cover. No other marks or inscriptions. Small crease to one front cover. Clean very tight booklets with bright unmarked boards rusty staples and no bumping to corners. Bound in and removable from a spring-back binder in very good condition. Total of 247pp. Fourteen lectures on wool its products including farming fashion carpets science Scottish wool New Zealand wool Victoria wool marketing finishing medieval wool biology Cistercian wool and West Country wool sponsored by the Wool Education Society from 1952-1955 in London. From a range of distinguished speakers including Arthur Raistrick and Hardy Amies. Soft Cover. Very Good. 8.5 x 5.5 inches. Dept of Education of the International Wool Secretariat Paperback
réf. 27678152-nnew. unknown
2017réf. 211203New York: Thames & Hudson 2017. Pictorial boards 191 pages illustrations chiefly colour; 35 cm. Translated into English from the original French book Androgyne: une image de mode et sa memoire. Firm binding clean inside copy. OVERSIZE! Additional shipping charges may be requested for international & priority orders. A large-format coffee-table book. Richly illustrated with colour plates. "In January 2011 Jean Paul Gaultier's haute couture runway show ended with the image of a willowy blonde bride in a diaphanous gown. The bride was a man and one of the first models to walk for both men's and women's collections. The event marked the start of a trend. 'This ad is gender neutral' proclaimed a 2016 poster for the fashion brand Diesel; 'I resist definitions' announced a Calvin Klein ad in the same year while a Louis Vuitton shoot featured Jaden Smith wearing a skirt. The art of Edward Burne-Jones and Gustave Moreau the writings of Oscar Wilde and the mystic Josephin Peladan prove that the turn of the previous century was as compelled by androgyny as this one. Patrick Mauries presents a cultural history of androgyny--accompanied by a striking selection of more than 120 images from nineteenth-century painting to contemporary fashion photography--drawing on the worlds of art and literature to give us a deeper understanding of the strange but timeless human drive to escape from defined categories." - Publisher. CONTENTS: Beneath the veil; 'A length of horsehair twine'; A body of ivory; The inverted body; Opposing anatomies; Life as a novel; Civilization and its discontented; An amphibious creature; Puer senilis; The 'Androgynosphinx'; Amazons; Flaming creatures; A certain Mr Fish. 'Ladies and Gentlemen . . . and others' The latest mode. 1st. Hardcover. Fine. Folio. Collectible. Thames & Hudson Hardcover
