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La fourrure parisienne. Grand choix de modeles de luxe. Hiver 1936. Publication annuelle No. 4. . . .

1936ref. 56297Vienna Austria & Paris: Les Editions Leon Claude 4 Rue mayran 1936. Folio. 10.75 x 14.6 in. 4 pp. With 25 colour fashion plates text printed in French English & German. Textured beige softcovers raised & embossed gilt lettering front cover black lettering for Leon Claude minor chipping head & foot of spine edgewear some scuffing still a VG copy w/ the fashion plates in bright condition. First edition of this very scarce and beautifully printed fashion design magazine from the mid 1930s produced by the publishing house which also published fashion publications such as Paris Chic La Coquette and Le Gout Parisien. These designs show the dominant influence of Elsa Schiaparelli’s fashions in the 1930s as she continued Chanel’s idea of comfortable jackets but with the emphasis on beautiful tailoring. The designs here include most in 3/4 length with some sporting shapes and belted jackets as well as fancy wraps made from leopard panther kid-astrakhan Buenos broadtail lamb beaver otter Persian lamb musk mink fox and others. The collars are voluminous and flaring all the way around and the linings are often chosen to complement and match the dresses worn by the models. These 1930s fashions show a dramatic drop in hem lengths the new French beret style hats worn at an angle and designs which inspired the Hollywood glamor look of the era popularized by Joan Crawford Carole Lombard and others. The designs are glamorous and chic with many having geometric patterns and reflecting the Art Deco influence. These fashion designs were issued only to subscribing specialty shops boutiques and fashion enthusiasts at the time with eight different issues on assorted subjects appearing annually. No copies of this issue located in Worldcat. Les Editions Leon Claude, 4, Rue mayran, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos350,00 US$≈ 312,08 €

[FASHION -- SWIMSUIT PHOTOS].Biblio.com

Grace Line Eastman Chemical Products and Harper’s Bazaar present a new wave of fashion in “Chromspun” swimwear. . . a remarkable group of 33 photographs depicting an underwater themed fashion show onboard a Grace Line cruise ship.

1959ref. 56594New York & Rochester NY: Grace Line Harper’s Bazaar & Eastman Chemical Products subsidiary of Eastman Kodak 1959. 4to. With 33 black & white photographs inserted in mylar sleeves. Recent flexible black vinyl cover portfolio NF exemplar w/ images having bright strong contrast. First edition of this remarkably scarce group of photos advertising the 1959 fashionable swimsuits made from Chromspun acetate yarn developed for textiles by Eastman Kodak in the early 1950s. Discovered while developing cigarette filters the yarn proved durable and elastic enough for swimsuits other apparel home furnishings and other applications. The swimsuits modeled in this show were influenced by and possibly included the very popular Rose Marie Reid line of swimwear which was heavily marketed by Harper’s Bazaar during the 1940s and 1950s and was considered to be the quintessential California swimsuit worn by such stars as Jane Russell and Sandra Dee in the first Gidget movie produced by Columbia in 1959. Represented in these photos are the swimsuits included the strapless bikini princess bubble Baby Doll often with stripes and cover-ups. Although not indicated in the photographs this fashion show was probably held on one of the new Grace Line ocean liners the Santa Rosa which was delivered in 1958 and serviced the Caribbean South America and traveled through The Saint Lawrence Seaway into the Great Lakes. See: Rose Marie Reid Glamour by Design Special Collections Exhibit Brigham Young University 2015-2016; Michael Grace The Grace Line History Cruising the Past Travel and Social History 2009; Jean Was a “Young American Goddess of Paris Couture” Jean Patchett Prose on Genesis 2020. Grace Line, Harper’s Bazaar, & Eastman Chemical Products, subsidiary of Eastman Kodak, unknown

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos1150,00 US$≈ 1025,41 €

[FASHION -- SAMPLE BOOK]. [JOHNSON, Edward Crosby (Owner/Dry Goods Dealer)].Biblio.com

Memorandum. Messrs. C.F. Hovey & Co. Boston. Fall 1874. An extraordinary Victorian buyer’s sample manuscript ledger for the 1874 autumn fashion season assembled by one of the partner’s and main purchasing agent for Boston’s historic C.F. Hovey & Co. department store. The lavish and detailed record includes the original invoices on most on printed letterhead 925 original fabric samples tipped-in and pinned-in to the pages as samples of the purchases and reflects the colours styles and fabrics in demand in the opening of the American Gilded Age.

1874ref. 54872Boston: C.F. Hovey & Co. 1874. Folio. 13.5 x 11 in. 36 pp. 1 59 1 leaves. first 36 pp. incorporating title Memorandum pages several ALS letters and invoices on letterhead 8 pp. on graph paper w/ samples incorporated into the text 2 additional leaves of tissue thin manuscript copies from blotter 925 original fabric samples pinned-in glued-in and laid in sized from .5 x .5 in. up to 6 x 13 in. including a myriad of colours tartans plaids flannels silk blends cottons poplin cottons woolens etc. Original plum-coloured factory sample book purchased by Hovey from stationer P.L. Morin Paris who specialized in producing blank scrapbooks for factory sample cards printing & stationery registers w/ label mounted on front pastedown worn rubbing spine perished hinges loosed somewhat shaken still a remarkable unsophisticated exemplar preserved in folding case. This exceptional Victorian fabric sample order book assembled by a buyer for C.F Hovey & Co.’s fall fashion season furnishes an invaluable time capsule of colours textures and preferences in the 1870s. This era in women’s fashion driven by Parisian and other European design houses demanded extraordinary amounts of fabrics with an emphasis on the back of the skirt long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching. More significantly there was a tremendous growth in patterned poplin fabrics bright cotton & silk fabric blends as well as brilliant jewel colours. This order book with hundreds of different samples also offers a fantastic peek into the Victorian obsession with tartans and plaids driven by the mystique and example of Queen Victoria the ever-growing popularity with the historical romances of Sir Walter Scott celebrating the Highlanders and the poetry of Robert Burns. Tartan and plaid patterns were used in gowns dresses shawls veils hats purses and many fashion houses would often choose a particular clan pattern to celebrate and promote in their sales literature. Men’s suits coats and jackets were buttoned high on the chest the woolens became lighter weight and more durable as well of better quality and fashion designers for Hovey & Co. also incorporated rough finish woolens twills and tweeds into their clothing offered for sale. Many of the fabrics were also sold in Hovey & Co. fabric department in assorted lengths as well as ends for uses by Victorian women in home craft projects. Johnson focused on buying in the major wholesale textile dealers and markets of Europe during the 1870s including Stavert Tigomala & Co. one of the largest textile commission houses in Bradford UK; Firth Booth & Co. who specialized in bright cotton poplin plaids tartans wool blends and moire; Chamberlin Donner & Co. of Manchester one of the largest wholesale merchant houses shippers & traders in the British Empire; A. Van Bergen & Co. in Paris France whose beautifully patterned cotton and silk blends and woolens were enhanced by the award-winning dyes of Blanche at Puteaux; Les Fils de Th. Le Grand with wool blends twills and rough finish woolens. The sizes of the orders were remarkable and show the strength of Hovey’s customer base with one pair of invoices showing orders from Firth Booth & Co. totaling £ 7785 or over £ 855000 in present day value. However as evidenced by letter from Charles Kretschmann in Berlin who notes that Johnson in his June 24 1874 visit was “not pleased with the Berlin style of garments for this season and ordered only a very small lot”C.F. Hovey & Co. was founded by Charles Fox Hovey in 1833 as a dry goods merchant and with in a few years became a large department store located on Summer St. Through the years up to his death in 1859 he brought on many partners and was an ardent abolitionist and supporter of women’s rights establishing the Hovey Fund. After his death in 1859 Thomas Mack and Augustus De Puyster took over the running of the company and expansion through the Civil War. Johnson 1839-1927 was a Harvard grad clerk for Hovey & Co. and Civil War Veteran who rose from 1st Lieutenant in Co. H. Massachusetts 44th Infantry to Full Adjutant before mustering out right before Gettysburg. Hovey & Co. survived the massive fire of 1872 by employees soaking all the woolen blankets on the sales counters in water and placing over the roof and windows to protect the building from the flowing cinders expanded into store fronts on Chauncy and Avon Streets and was the first retailer to adopt the policy of requiring monthly payments on credit accounts. See: The History of the House of Hovey 1919; Charles Boston Looking Back at C.F. Hovey’s of Boston Shopping Days in Retro Boston May 6 2011; History of Fashion 1840-1900 Victoria and Albert Museum 2016. C.F. Hovey & Co., hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos1950,00 US$≈ 1738,74 €

[FASHION -- ADVERTISING DISPLAY].Biblio.com

Finest quality custom fabrics. Exclusive patterns & weaves. Woolens of virgin wool contain no shoddy. Autumn & Winter 1937-1938 . . . salesman sample counter display case for woolen weaves containing stamples for the Ferris Woolen Co. & Wawak Woolens.

1937ref. 54988Chicago: Ferris Woolen Co. Successor to Detmer Brewer & Mason Wawak Co. Inc. 1937. Sample case. 27.75 x 11 x 7.5 in. Containing 172 thick cards w/ black & red advertising lettering stock & style Nos. with 172 woolens worsted wool imported wool samples some preshrunk all mounted on the cards. Original sample display case w/ green textured cloth over boards divided into 3 compartments nickel plate slider hinges printed advertising on inner lid and drop front reinforced corners some minor wear insect predation around fore-edges of a few samples still a remarkable display case from the John the Tailor Shop Suits and Overcoats made to order Wausau WI w/ stamp on top Wawak sample card. First edition of this spectacular tailoring sample counter display for men’s suits and overcoats in the Fall & Winter of 1937-1938. Ferris Woolen Company a subsidiary of Wawak Woolens was originally founded in 1922 in Chicago along with Detmer Woolen Co. Bruner Woolen Co. Mason & Hanson Inc. and Salter & Wolf to supply woolens & trimmings to tailors and department stores across the United States. The companies were known for their high-quality wools at a reasonable price and often incorporated imported wool wool silk blends gabardines and tweeds especially from Scotland Wales France and Great Britain. In 1933 the Wawak Co./Ferris Woolen Co. purchased the exclusive right to all the Detmer Bruner Co. customers West of the Mississippi. They quickly began commissioning and producing display cases reflecting the change and proved very successful with the Ferris Woolen Co. catering to the trade into the 1960s. These sample cases were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these display on the sales floor for two seasons or more often adding or subtracting fabrics as they became available. The samples included with this case offer invaluable textile reference for the colours and fabrics during the era of fashion influenced by the elegance and glamor of Hollywood films and film noir at the time. The styles depicted on the inside of the lid and the drop-down front are reminiscent of the very popular Thin Man fashions worn by William Powell and Myrna Loy at the time. No copies located in Worldcat. Ferris Woolen Co., Successor to Detmer, Brewer & Mason, Wawak Co., Inc., hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos950,00 US$≈ 847,08 €

[FASHION -- WOMEN & MEN'S CLOTHING]. [ISRAEL, Clarence Elbert (President)].Biblio.com

The Melville Company distinctive styles for particular women. Salesman fashion sample portfolio fashion designs textiles samples sales forms.

1950ref. 54848Cincinnati OH: The Melville Company ca. 1950. 4to. 39 8.5 x 11 in. fashion plates with 97 tipped-in fabric samples including cotton cotton blends cotton-rayon blends satin nylon for men & women’s fashions dresses lingerie pants suits skirts. order blank booklet preserved in original cardboard portfolio w/ company design logo on rear flap an excellent collection. First edition of this scarce and unusually complete salesman sample sales kit for women’s dresses fashions coats lingerie as well as men’s overcoats underwear & socks and even women’s outerwear rubber pocket books and overcoats in post-World War II America. The Melville Company was a coordinated direct-sales fashion company supplied by Harford Frocks Inc. which maintained a large mail order tailoring operation in Ohio from the early 1920s up through the 1970s employing 100s of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders together with J.C. Field & Son Inc. direct marketing firm. The company focused on “plus sizes” while maintaining how these fashions emphasized trim appearances survived on a constant sales force composed primarily of young women and house wives earning extra money willing to peddle door-to-door and created a high-quality product. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the explosion and impact of Christian Dior’s new designs reflecting the refined femininity with severely cinched waists extra padding to the hips longer and decidedly more romantic skirts and dresses as well as nicely fitted jacket-and-skirt tailored suits. Israel 1901-1991 built and ran this very successful mail order dressmaking operation which also owned the Fashion Frocks Dress Company as well and operated out of the Oesterlein Machine Company historic building in Cincinnati OH now home to the American Sign Museum. The Melville Company, unknown

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos375,00 US$≈ 334,37 €

[FASHION - WOMEN]. [KOEWING, Frank (Ed & President).]Biblio.com

Fashions and fabrics; The model hostess; An American woman in Algiers; For the fair rider bicycles; The emancipated woman as portrayed in the fiction of the day. . . The Standard Delineator of Fashions Fancy Work and Millinery. . . Vol. II No. 2. . . .

1895ref. 54146New York: Standard Fashion Company June 1895. 4to. 96 pp. 1 large folding colour chromolithograph frontisp. sized 21.5 x 10.75 in. 1 colour chromolithograph plate over 150 woodcut text illustrations & engravings. Gold-coloured printed softcovers brick-red lettering minor dustsoiling light wear to creases of folding frontisp. still VG copy. First edition of this scarce and beautifully printed fashion magazine which was published under this title only from 1894 through 1896 when it was forced to change the name to The Standard Designer after losing a lawsuit brought by the Butterick Publishing Co. against Frank Koewing d. 1933 their former western sales manager for Butterick. Founded in 1887 the Standard Fashion Co. would eventually become a serious rival to the Butterick Pattern Co. appropriating the “Delineator” for his magazine poaching employees and eventually building the company to issuing over 100000 cut patterns a week. While often facing bankruptcy and litigious to a fault the company was acquired as a subsidiary in 1900 by Butterick and the combined companies would thrive through the ensuing decades. Each of the Standard Delineator magazine issues featured a large chromolithograph frontispiece of the latest fashions as well as a smaller one of millinery designs. Worldcat locates primarily microfilm copies however individual issues are held by Notre Dame and Davidson College; See; A Man of the Hour Frank Koewing The Bookseller and Newsman Vol. 13 1896 pp. 4-5; Carol Ann Dickson Patterns for Garments: A History of the Paper Garment Pattern Industry in America 1979. Standard Fashion Company, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos200,00 US$≈ 178,33 €

[FASHION -- SINGER SEWING MACHINES/WOMEN]. SINGER SEWING; ALOS, MargaritaBiblio.com

Libro “Singer” de bordados. . . ; Academia “Singer” Villa Canas: examen primer curso Ano 1939. . . Singer company embroidery manual together with embroidery sample catalogue for Singer Sewing Center in Argentina showing all of Ms. Alos’ sewing samples.

1939ref. 53215New York: Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co. Departamento de Educacion January 1941; 1939. Two vols. 1st - Tall 8vo. 225 1 pp. Over 150 colour and black & white photo illustrations diagrams. Black textured softcovers gilt lettering & decoration printed on front cover edgewear bumping to corners minor soiling old tape repairs to front cover still G- copy; 2nd -- Oblong 4to. 12 x 7.75 in. 54 pp. on pink-tinted paper with 57 tipped-in fabric embroidered sewing samples including over on linen silk lace satin and wool textiles each w/ school stamp approving sample. Half-blue cloth post-binder over blue goards gilt lettering stamped on front cover sewn at gutter margin w/ white silk ribbon soiling minor dampstain curving to covers from the bulk of the tipped-in samples on the leaves still a VG exemplar. Both preserved in blue textured cardboard box & lid minor edgewear faint tidemark to lower fore-edge 1 corner. Fourth revised edition of this well-illustrated embroidery guide on stitches to be learned and executed on Singer Sewing Machines together with a beautifully done sample book showing Ms. Alos’ skills in learning the necessary skills in her Singer school in Villa Canas Argentina. The Singer Sewing Machine company developed special Singer Sewing Academia in Argentina Mexico and many other South American countries as well as Spain between the World Wars. These special private schools for professional dressmakers using the Singer manuals allowed female-owned dressmaking businesses to grow and create professional spaces separte from men. In addition these academias allowed women to pay by the class and embroidery was one of the advanced skills which commanded higher wages for women at the time. Singer actively encouraged this movement in order to develop home-based businesses and academias which in turn increased their sales of sewing machines. The sample book begins with a number of decorative types of embroidery stitches monograms and then displays floral patterns spider-web patterns laces a beautifully embroidered red roses and carnations on purple silks and satins. Worldcat locates 2 copies of the Libro Singer Bibliotecas del Tecnologico de Monterrey Mexico; British Library 3rd editions; See: Ketteler Sewing through the years in art women and society; Paula de la Cruz-Fernandez Atlantic Threads: Singer in Spain and Mexico 1860-1940 pp. 198-210. Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co., Departamento de Educacion, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · Estados Unidos750,00 US$≈ 668,75 €

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