Women's fashionBiblio.com
830 Ergebnisse
1950Best.-Nr. 218281950. Fashion design archive likely 1950s to 1960s documenting women's garment design during the mid-century through original working sketches that preserve both style development and the practical language of dressmaking. The archive is strongest as evidence of how women's fashion was conceived on paper before production with repeated attention to silhouette trim fabric and construction. Dresses blouses coats and eveningwear appear throughout placing the material within the visual world of postwar American fashion as it moved from structured elegance toward sharper and more decorative later mid-century forms. Archive of over 100 original hand-drawn fashion sketches on individual sheets measuring approximately 6.5 x 9 inches. The drawings are executed in ink and depict a wide range of women's clothing including fitted dresses capes blouses coats and formal designs with careful attention to drape proportion neckline sleeve treatment and surface embellishment. Many sheets are accompanied by dense handwritten notes in the margins or on the reverse recording measurements fabric suggestions and pattern or construction instructions. The combination of illustration and notation gives the sheets the character of working designs rather than purely display drawings and suggests use in dressmaking training or client planning. The archive belongs to the history of women's fashion not only as a record of finished styles but as evidence of the design process itself preserving the intermediate stage between idea and garment. Such working sketches show how fashion circulated through manual skill technical knowledge and close attention to fabric and form in the decades before design became fully digitized. Light general wear from use; overall very good. A substantial mid-century design archive that preserves the visual and technical vocabulary of women's fashion making across more than one hundred original sketches. unknown
1937Best.-Nr. 54988Chicago: Ferris Woolen Co. Successor to Detmer Brewer & Mason Wawak Co. Inc. 1937. Sample case. 27.75 x 11 x 7.5 in. Containing 172 thick cards w/ black & red advertising lettering stock & style Nos. with 172 woolens worsted wool imported wool samples some preshrunk all mounted on the cards. Original sample display case w/ green textured cloth over boards divided into 3 compartments nickel plate slider hinges printed advertising on inner lid and drop front reinforced corners some minor wear insect predation around fore-edges of a few samples still a remarkable display case from the John the Tailor Shop Suits and Overcoats made to order Wausau WI w/ stamp on top Wawak sample card. First edition of this spectacular tailoring sample counter display for men’s suits and overcoats in the Fall & Winter of 1937-1938. Ferris Woolen Company a subsidiary of Wawak Woolens was originally founded in 1922 in Chicago along with Detmer Woolen Co. Bruner Woolen Co. Mason & Hanson Inc. and Salter & Wolf to supply woolens & trimmings to tailors and department stores across the United States. The companies were known for their high-quality wools at a reasonable price and often incorporated imported wool wool silk blends gabardines and tweeds especially from Scotland Wales France and Great Britain. In 1933 the Wawak Co./Ferris Woolen Co. purchased the exclusive right to all the Detmer Bruner Co. customers West of the Mississippi. They quickly began commissioning and producing display cases reflecting the change and proved very successful with the Ferris Woolen Co. catering to the trade into the 1960s. These sample cases were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these display on the sales floor for two seasons or more often adding or subtracting fabrics as they became available. The samples included with this case offer invaluable textile reference for the colours and fabrics during the era of fashion influenced by the elegance and glamor of Hollywood films and film noir at the time. The styles depicted on the inside of the lid and the drop-down front are reminiscent of the very popular Thin Man fashions worn by William Powell and Myrna Loy at the time. No copies located in Worldcat. Ferris Woolen Co., Successor to Detmer, Brewer & Mason, Wawak Co., Inc., hardcover
1911Best.-Nr. 48842Cincinnati OH: Goldman Beckman & Co. 1911. Elephant folio. 21 x 18 x 1.75 in. 50 pp unpaginated printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. 17 colour plates 1 page w/ colour-illustrated borders 8 black & white plates with 150 mounted textile samples in wool wool worsted blends some felt backed moleskin cashmere and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability many with damage from insecty predation occasional soot soiling soiling to fore-edges many of the images with illustrations of models in period dress in backgrounds and around borders. Half-black cloth over green gilt lettering and embossing of Company logo on front cover illustrated endpapers with the different suit models on pastedowns occasional soot soiling foxing minor dustsoiling from fabric dust cloth covers renewed w/ original company logo & title mounted front cover still a G copy entirely complete with all samples present. First edition of this scarce salesman sample fashion catalogue for men’s suits in the Edwardian era prior to World War I. Goldman Beckman & Co. was owned by Louis Goldman 1850-1921 who had founded the firm in 1894 after decades in the wholesale suit tailoring business marketing to men & young men. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles men’s clubs and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor in the Cincinnati area. This catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the Progressive Era. Many of the plates show elegantly dressed men and women in the park the flower show at the museum playing sports and even preparing to go on a canal boat. In addition there are a number of plates showing properly cut trousers and the available cuts special sections devoted to fancy cuffs and pockets fitted backs men’s hats formal wear and much more. No copies located in Worldcat. Goldman, Beckman & Co., hardcover
1930Best.-Nr. 57289Nottingham UK: Vida Mills Jones Stroud & Co. Ltd. ca. 1930. Thick 8vo. 26 pp unpaginated. on thick card stock w/ burgundy linen hinges at gutter margin w/ 113 rayon elastic nylon elastic rubber and silk rayon blend trims 1 silver gelatin frontisp. photo mounted on front pastedown sized 3.5 x 5.5 in. w/ 10 colour-printed & illustrated labels and elastic holders tipped-in numerous printed photographic plates. Quarter-burgundy coloured cloth over simulated alligator boards screw posts at gutter margin minor rubbing slight bumping to corners 1 sample removed still a VG copy. First edition thus of this extraordinary and inventive salesman sample catalogue for elastic trims between the Wars. Horace Jones had invented a specialized braiding machine in 1927 for creating elastics by braiding rubber filaments together with rayon nylon cotton or silk-rayon blends to create a number of different “Elastic” Boil Proof Vida trims. Prior to the widespread introduction of many stretchable and elastic fabrics following World War II Vida Mills products were used shoulder straps for lingerie suspenders both for men and women’s fashions swim trunk and briefs trunk top elastic bands. In addition these were used for car covers bags accessories creating pleats sleeve hems and much more. In addition there are a number of samples included here for durable boot and shoe laces. The coloured and metallic Ric Rac trims were used in costumes uniforms decorative elements on clothing and many other applications. By 1930 the company had deployed 3000 braiding machines generating over 52 million yards of elastic braid annually and in 1940 expanded into manufacturing glass tapes and woven fabrics for electrical installations and industrial Wartime applications. The company still operates today as the Jones Stroud Insulations Ltd. subsidiary of the Krempel Group since 2000. No copies in Worldcat; See: History of Jones Stroud Insulations -- Timeline Krempel 2015; Trade Marks Ordinance Official Gazette Kenya Dec. 4 1956 p. 1315. Vida Mills, Jones Stroud & Co., Ltd., hardcover
1922Best.-Nr. 78454Paris: Dorbon-Ainé 1922. Hardcover. The second volume only. Collection of beautifully colored pochoir plates depicting elite fashion published originally in La Gazette du Bon Ton between 1920 and 1922. Includes work by Barbier Benito Bonfils Brissaud and many others. Royal octavo: 2 pp. with 100 color plates one two-panel. The red marbled paper-covered boards have been expertly rebacked with the original spine strip laid down. Small indentation to the fore-edge of about a quarter of the plates not affecting the images. Some general edgewear to the boards. Dorbon-Ainé hardcover
Best.-Nr. 25226Note dated 16 May 1999. Some of the photographs taken in 'France May 1999' for Italian Vogue. Bündchen’s career began in London in 1998. Since 2001 she has been one of the highest-paid fashion models in the world. In 2007 Forbes listed her as the sixteenth-richest woman in the entertainment industry. In 2019 Claudia Schiffer described her as the last of the supermodels. Comte’s fashion and portrait photography have appeared in a wide range of publications primarily Italian Vogue. In 2000 he was named Photographer of the year by PHOTO magazine. The present collection consists of sixty-three photographs of Bündchen five in colour and fifty-eight in black and white evidently taken by Comte laid down with a covering note to him from her on twenty-one pages over eleven leaves of foolscap 8vo extracted from an album. In good condition lightly aged. Covering the whole of the first page is the Autograph Note Signed by ‘Gisele Bündchen’ 16 may 1999 with a curl at the end of the signature enclosing a childish smiling face. At top right is a very simple drawing of a flower. The note is in a childish hand and is headed ‘Michel’ and reads ‘Obrigada por tudo. Tive um timpo moravilhoso. sic Um muito carinho / Gisele Bündchen / 16-05-99’. On the reverse of the leaf are three colour photographs variations of the same scene of Bündchen posing in front of a crowd of tourists the pages that follow carry similar triplets or quartets of photographs taken at the same time. The 31 photographs on the first ten pages arranged in ten groups appear to come from the same outdoor shoot with Bündchen striking a pose while surrounded by members of the public. The two pages that follow carry five associated images of Bündchen in a bikini striding across a rocky beach. These are followed by another five over two pages this time showing Bündchen’s head and shoulders as she drapes what looks like a mink stole over her head. There are also eight images in two groups of Bündchen screaming and a group of four that show her smoking a cigarette while adorned in a somewhat garish necklace and earings. The latter group is mounted on a leaf captioned ‘ “Gisele im Cannes” Italian. Vogue / France May’. Mounted on the twenty-second page of the eleven leaves is what appears to be an unrelated item: a letter in German also written in a childish hand in felt-tip pen with large illegible signature something like ‘Mamti Rigis’ dated from Paris 19 may 1999. It reads: ‘Merci Michel / Das war bis jetzt das beste Fotoshooting das ich bisher machen konnte! Sehr erfischend mit super Ideen! Ich hoffe auf ein baldiges wiedersehen: vielleicht mit Pferden. / Paris. 19. Mai ’99’. Note dated 16 May 1999. Some of the photographs taken in 'France, May [1999]' for Italian Vogue. unknown
1934Best.-Nr. FASHION004963J.H. Ltd no place. 1934. First edition. Folio. A fashion illustration portfolio with twenty nine colour lithographic plates each measuring approx 37 x 31cm showing women's dresses in various fabrics from silk to tweed. The covers are unusual: full gilt textured cloth with titles in art deco style on front.Some spotting. Very good indeed. J.H. Ltd, no place. hardcover
1959Best.-Nr. 56594New York & Rochester NY: Grace Line Harper’s Bazaar & Eastman Chemical Products subsidiary of Eastman Kodak 1959. 4to. With 33 black & white photographs inserted in mylar sleeves. Recent flexible black vinyl cover portfolio NF exemplar w/ images having bright strong contrast. First edition of this remarkably scarce group of photos advertising the 1959 fashionable swimsuits made from Chromspun acetate yarn developed for textiles by Eastman Kodak in the early 1950s. Discovered while developing cigarette filters the yarn proved durable and elastic enough for swimsuits other apparel home furnishings and other applications. The swimsuits modeled in this show were influenced by and possibly included the very popular Rose Marie Reid line of swimwear which was heavily marketed by Harper’s Bazaar during the 1940s and 1950s and was considered to be the quintessential California swimsuit worn by such stars as Jane Russell and Sandra Dee in the first Gidget movie produced by Columbia in 1959. Represented in these photos are the swimsuits included the strapless bikini princess bubble Baby Doll often with stripes and cover-ups. Although not indicated in the photographs this fashion show was probably held on one of the new Grace Line ocean liners the Santa Rosa which was delivered in 1958 and serviced the Caribbean South America and traveled through The Saint Lawrence Seaway into the Great Lakes. See: Rose Marie Reid Glamour by Design Special Collections Exhibit Brigham Young University 2015-2016; Michael Grace The Grace Line History Cruising the Past Travel and Social History 2009; Jean Was a “Young American Goddess of Paris Couture” Jean Patchett Prose on Genesis 2020. Grace Line, Harper’s Bazaar, & Eastman Chemical Products, subsidiary of Eastman Kodak, unknown
1926Best.-Nr. 58100New York & Chicago: J.L. Taylor & Co. 1926. Thick elephant folio 17 x 23.25 x 2.5 ins. 75 3 pp. printed on thick card stock each mounted on linen hinge. With 17 colour fashion plates illustrating Taylor styles of the period verso of almost all pages with 364 of 375 mounted textile samples in wool wool-rayon blends some felt backed silk moleskin corduroy cashmere waistband sample and more -- all samples clearly marked with prices and availability some of the 12 missing samples are indicated in pencil as being “Out” as well as a few present 1 additional pinned-in numerous illustrations throughout in blue-green colour tinting including Chicago & New York factories some diagrams charts and graphs. Original half-green cloth over gray green cloth corners gilt lettering on front cover colour plate w/ J.L. Taylor tailor mounted front cover some wear & minor bumping to fore-edges corners some minor soiling & occasional foxing to interior leaves -- some of it dust from the wool samples 10-15 samples with minor deterioration and evidence of old predation still a very good unsophisticated and remarkably complete example w/ original 9 x 21 in. double-sided stock list in red & black laid-in. First edition of this scarce and unusually complete salesman sample catalogue for Jazz era men’s suits in 1928-1929. J.L. Taylor maintained a huge tailoring operation in both Chicago and New York until after World War II employing hundreds of tailors and seamstresses to fill orders. The catalogues were very expensive to produce and so were most often found in department stores mercantiles and men’s stores which would have these catalogues on the sales floor for two years or more. The catalogue offers invaluable illustrated historical reference for the colours styles and fabrics during the era of F. Scott Fitzgerald and the Flappers. Most of the colour fashion plates illustrating the available styles have elegantly dressed women and settings in the background including with an emphasis on sporting in summer so golf tennis croquet canoeing boating and swimming all make an appearance. Of particular interest is the wonderful dress chart indicating styles needed clothes accessories and shoes which one would need for Day Wedding Matinee Reception Evening Dress and many others offering an excellent marketing opportunity for the store to sell the customer items to compliment his suits overcoats and other fashion wear ordered from J.L. Taylor. The final plate focuses on the lightweight “Palm Beach” & “Mohair” suits at the height of the 1920’s boom in Florida featuring snappily dressed models in Panama straw hats and a lightweight fedora. Worldcat locates 1 partial copy Preserved at the Library of Congress stripped of samples and used as scrapbook for Wilbur’s Drug Store prescriptions of Portland ME -- not an unusual occurrence. J.L. Taylor & Co., hardcover
1911Best.-Nr. 51748France: n.p. 1911. Tall 8vo. 6 leaves on thick card stock printed in gilt & black 7 x 11 in. with 369 black silk & vegetable ivory buttons all with stock numbers below and to the side many in the dark brown patterned material some jet black and many with incised or woven patterns each sample card carefully mounted within corners with facing padded red silk leaves to protect the buttons many with ink annotations indicating whether they were available in stock or not. Quarter-black cloth over purple patterned cloth gilt lettering on front cover spine very minor rubbing at the hinges slight bumping to corners still a NF exemplar with the buttons entirely complete and in perfect condition. First edition of this remarkably beautiful Edwardian button sample catalogue which are exceedingly scarce in such exceptional condition. Included are a number of different styles of buttons in vegetable ivory for clothing coats sportswear and more which were sold by this French manufacturer for export together with a number of beautifully woven black silk cloth buttons for women’s coats hats and dresses. Vegetable Ivory is a very dense material that is manufactured into buttons from the Corozo nut that grows on the Tague Tree a type of Palm. It was named Vegetable Ivory in the 19th Century because it resembles real ivory but was not as heavy or dense. These types of buttons were first introduced at the 1862 International Exhibition in England and then reached full popularity at the 1867 Paris Exposition. The sample buttons preserved here come in pressed carved and fine lined patterns some of them painted with a dark flat black other shiny black and many with a beautiful rich shiny mottled effect. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods and prior to the growth in production and popularity these were the buttons of choice for men’s suits. No copies located in Worldcat. n.p.], hardcover
1955Best.-Nr. 16984n.p. Los Angeles areaa: 1955-57 Stored in a contemporary accordion-fold card paper portfolio hand-labeled "Sketches of Accepted Designs.". 137 sheets of hand-drawn sketches sixty-two on 9" x 11 " sheets 75 on 5 " x 8 " sheets. Most with handwritten design descriptions notes and accompanying fabric swatches pinned or taped onto the sheets. Also with price lists inventories and printed ads for the Candy Jr. brand ads correspond with designs made by Saunders that are included in the present set. Portfolio somewhat worn and creased. Enclosed are eight contemporary manila folders organized by season Holiday 1955 Fall 1956 Spring 1957 etc. all hand-labeled in pencil. Some designs signed "V. Saunders" or "Vivian Saunders." Some toning and creasing to leaves. A few fabric swatches detached from leaves. Overall a very good set of striking original sketches of 1950s-era fashion designs for young women. Most of the sketches are for party dresses and evening gowns made for young women in their early teens to early twenties juniors and misses. The designs include many iconic designs associated with the 1950s including "poodle" skirts with ample petticoats boleros and cardigans and sheath dresses with cinched waists. The 26 swatches indicate a wide range of textures colors and patterns like gingham plaid organza metallics appliques ribbon velvet fur and much more." unknown
1930Best.-Nr. 59525Hannover: Schneidermister ca. 1930-1933. Oblong elephant folio. 23.5 x 14.5 in. 25 leaves unnumbered. Original women’s fashion patterns in pencil throughout many with tipped-in pattern cutouts mounted on the sheets as well as colour images of the finished design tipped-in and mounted manuscript pencil notes & directions in some colour pencil additions to a a few patterns. Stiff limp beige covers black cloth spine title mounted on front cover scutting edgewear repair to corners of front cover corner still a remarkable manuscript w/ tipped-in instructions for taking measurements and fashion by the Nazi Party on first leaf including one entitled “Ein Modewart macht Propaganda.” This German fashion pattern tailoring and pattern manuscript provides an exceptional original artifact of the period when the Nazi Party began to force educational and cultural changes upon German Society against the tailoring and fashion industry in Germany during the early 1930’s. By 1930 Berlin had emerged as an international fashion capital drawing Parisian fashion designers and most of the tailoring schools and fashion houses were operated by generations of Jewish family owners. Tailors and fashion designers were constantly reminded that they must create a wholly Aryan fashion and that they were to avoid French or other outside influences. Despite the pressure most women tailors and fashion designers in the tailoring or cutting schools continued to still draw their influences from Parisian and American couturiers by creating their own patterns and pattern books from which these internationally themed clothing designs could be made. This fashion pattern book by Bode focuses on women’s suits skirts capes coats and knickerbockers. However the Party never succeeded in creating a unique Fashion industry especially because of the drive to dress women in peasant costumes or uniforms even as the Nazi Party would confiscate the assets of over 2700 Jewish fashion houses retailers and manufacturers with 1000’s of tailors and seamstresses forced into labor and concentration camps to produce clothes for military and high society. See: Uwe Westphal Fashion Metropolis Berlin 1836-1939: The Story of the Rise and Destruction of the Jewish Fashion Industry 2019. Schneidermister, hardcover
1941Best.-Nr. 14713England 1941. Very Good. Substantial collection of original amateur artwork and fashion plates dated 1941 to 1945 by a young woman named Gladys Warren almost all pieces signed "G. Warren" "G.W." or "Gladys Warren". The collection consists of nine large format watercolors 56x38cm.; one small format watercolor 32.5x23; four large format pencil sketches 56x38cm.; and twelve small format pencil sketches 33.5x19cm. totaling twenty-six 26 individual pieces. Some dust soil and minor wear from handling watercolors not examined out of individual shrink wrap. A Very Good or better collection overall. Collection of drawings and watercolors almost exclusively depicting women in the latest fashions or in uniform. The range of the large format watercolors indicate that this was possibly a burgeoning professional dossier including examples of day wear sleep wear evening wear and swim wear. The large format pencil drawings include two historic fashion illustrations the only titled image in the group is "Madeira 1884" and one nude study. Of special note however is the series of twelve small pencil sketches all accomplished on the versos of what appear to be mimeographed World War II aircraft maintenance reports. Indeed the October 28 1941 "London Gazette" lists a Gladys Florence Warren among the members of the Women's Auxiliary Air Force WAAF though we find little else to pinpoint the artist. With the dearth of ready paper experienced during World War II perhaps Warren filched these leaves on which to practice her art Most of these sketches depict attractive women either seen in close-up or as usual modeling the latest uniforms and fashions while the verso details the assemblage or maintenance of engine covers handbrakes or a "carburettor." A pleasing survival of the English home front juxtaposing fashion femininity and aircraft mechanics. unknown
1942Best.-Nr. 61064Brooklyn NY: Barbara Duffy ca. 1942-1945. Seven pieces of original pen & ink art and gouache colouring and overpainting sized from 10 x 15 in. 3 up to 15 x 20 in. 3 on “Winsor & Newton’s Illustration Board 30 x 40” while the 7th piece is 9 x 17 in. executed on textured thick laid-paper pencil annotations in MS on fore-edges all pieces signed in thick black pen on versos some dustsoiling staining to fore-edges to a couple bumping to corners edgewear still a VG set of well-done exemplars. These original fashion design illustrations encompass women’s dresses hats fur coats evening wear and a post-War design by Mangone. The two dresses drawn by Duffy are reminiscent of the Claire McCardell easy to wear and comfortable dresses which emerged at the end of the War and featured a cinched-in waist floppy collars and padded shoulders retaining the influence of men’s tailoring on women’s fashions during the War. The “Toppers” are splendid examples of box or swagger coats often made in light wool cotton or rayon blends and in this case with fetching hats and cinched-in waists. The two smaller designs with mink or beaver coats include one with a matching purse and the other with a pillbox hat. The two “Paris” style Cloche hats are nicely drawn and one is fitted with a mesh veil. The exceptional Mangone design indicates it was “Sketched at Mangone’s” which was probably one of the frequent sessions the designer would put on fashion shows at the Fashion Institute or local boutiques in and around New York following World War II and features a coat trimmed in beaver fur with Cloche hat and according to Duffy was available in light and dark wool along with an ascot. Mangone 1884-1957 was not only a significant Italian-American designer who quickly adapted Paris fashion trends into his own American style and was very popular from before World War I until after World War II. Strikingly he also was a survivor of the Hindenburg disaster who managed to leap from the Zeppelin at Lakehurst NJ with his daughter and grand-daughter looking on suffering significant burns and after shock and hospitalization spent considerable time recovering. Duffy b. 1919 taught at the Jacob Gould Vocational School for girls in Prospect Park Brooklyn NY from the time she left college until after World War II after which she worked as designer in local department stores and then disappears from census and public records. Barbara Duffy, unknown
Best.-Nr. 0621QKUC5EJLeather Bound. Paris. Very Good. Nouvelle édition marquetée polie & vernissé Printed in red 1759 in quarter leather and decorated paper over boards moderately scuffed at spine tips and corners. Scarce. 12mo. xxxviii 88 pages ; 14 cm unknown
1833Best.-Nr. 62953Leipzig Industrie-Comptoir / Baumgärtner etc. 1833-1856. Small queer-folio 22 x 285 cm. Nice later light brown half calf from ca. 1900 with five raised bands and gilt lines to spine Carl Petersens Enke. Slight wear to extremities. 100 engraved plates in contemporary colouring. A bit of even browning and occasional offsetting. A few plates with more browning. Some plates with tiny holes in blank margin from original stiching having been vertically bound with text-leaves. Occasional light creasing. One plate with a tear no loss. A few plates signed A. Brückner most plates numbered and dated and some plates having "Extra-Kupfer" or "Les Modes Parisiennes Réunis" the last five underneath. A lovely collection of 100 beautiful contemporarily coloured engraved fashion-plates from between 1833 and 1856 importing the highest Parisian fashion of the time to Germany. This beautiful collection magnificently documents the clothing fashion and development of two decades primarily for women but also for children and men. Also in the mid-19th-century Paris was seen as the quintessence of elegance and style. The Allgemeine Moden-Zeitung kept the German-speaking public up to date with the latest fashions from Paris. The magazine “Les modes parisiennes reunites” did the same; that too was produced for the German public despite its French title. As well as outfits for appearing in high society eg. at the theatre the fashion plates collected here show clothes and notably also accessories for almost all other parts of life - paying and receiving social calls going for walks attending different events musical siorées going out with the children etc. “As part of her evening wardrobe every fashionable lady simply had to have elegant dresses in brightly coloured silks and satins with frills and lace bows and flounces tight bodices natural waistlines and exposed shoulders which gave the female figure an hour-glass silhouette. The first thing that strikes one about these ladies’ fashions are the stiff voluminous underskirts. Horsehair crinolines invented in 1850 supported wide sweeping skirts which could measure up to two or two-and-a-half metres in diameter and made the upper body look even slimmer.” Deutsches Historisches Museum. "From the 1820s onwards and particularly under the ostentatious Second Empire 1852–1870 the classicising taste of the Napoleonic era changed completely. Instead fashion now drew inspiration from the elegance of the Rococo period so much so that the period became known as the “second Rococo”. The waistline returned to its natural level but was awkwardly styled – at least from a health point of view: agonisingly tight corsets emphasised the so-called “wasp waist”. Ostensibly guided by aesthetics on closer inspection this fashion trend also had social consequences: with styles that afforded women so little freedom of movement fashion focused on the ostentatious requirements of ladies from the upper echelons of society who didn’t have to work. Practicality was not its concern. This ostentatious and – certainly from the perspective of the 21st century – inconvenient fashion style appealed not only to the fine ladies of high society but also to women from the middle classes and the petty bourgeoisie. The expansion of the textile industry and the rise of the chemical industry made the production of dyes fabrics lace and embroidery and the processing of raw materials and textiles imported from the colonies both quicker and cheaper.” DHM hardcover
1874Best.-Nr. 54872Boston: C.F. Hovey & Co. 1874. Folio. 13.5 x 11 in. 36 pp. 1 59 1 leaves. first 36 pp. incorporating title Memorandum pages several ALS letters and invoices on letterhead 8 pp. on graph paper w/ samples incorporated into the text 2 additional leaves of tissue thin manuscript copies from blotter 925 original fabric samples pinned-in glued-in and laid in sized from .5 x .5 in. up to 6 x 13 in. including a myriad of colours tartans plaids flannels silk blends cottons poplin cottons woolens etc. Original plum-coloured factory sample book purchased by Hovey from stationer P.L. Morin Paris who specialized in producing blank scrapbooks for factory sample cards printing & stationery registers w/ label mounted on front pastedown worn rubbing spine perished hinges loosed somewhat shaken still a remarkable unsophisticated exemplar preserved in folding case. This exceptional Victorian fabric sample order book assembled by a buyer for C.F Hovey & Co.’s fall fashion season furnishes an invaluable time capsule of colours textures and preferences in the 1870s. This era in women’s fashion driven by Parisian and other European design houses demanded extraordinary amounts of fabrics with an emphasis on the back of the skirt long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching. More significantly there was a tremendous growth in patterned poplin fabrics bright cotton & silk fabric blends as well as brilliant jewel colours. This order book with hundreds of different samples also offers a fantastic peek into the Victorian obsession with tartans and plaids driven by the mystique and example of Queen Victoria the ever-growing popularity with the historical romances of Sir Walter Scott celebrating the Highlanders and the poetry of Robert Burns. Tartan and plaid patterns were used in gowns dresses shawls veils hats purses and many fashion houses would often choose a particular clan pattern to celebrate and promote in their sales literature. Men’s suits coats and jackets were buttoned high on the chest the woolens became lighter weight and more durable as well of better quality and fashion designers for Hovey & Co. also incorporated rough finish woolens twills and tweeds into their clothing offered for sale. Many of the fabrics were also sold in Hovey & Co. fabric department in assorted lengths as well as ends for uses by Victorian women in home craft projects. Johnson focused on buying in the major wholesale textile dealers and markets of Europe during the 1870s including Stavert Tigomala & Co. one of the largest textile commission houses in Bradford UK; Firth Booth & Co. who specialized in bright cotton poplin plaids tartans wool blends and moire; Chamberlin Donner & Co. of Manchester one of the largest wholesale merchant houses shippers & traders in the British Empire; A. Van Bergen & Co. in Paris France whose beautifully patterned cotton and silk blends and woolens were enhanced by the award-winning dyes of Blanche at Puteaux; Les Fils de Th. Le Grand with wool blends twills and rough finish woolens. The sizes of the orders were remarkable and show the strength of Hovey’s customer base with one pair of invoices showing orders from Firth Booth & Co. totaling £ 7785 or over £ 855000 in present day value. However as evidenced by letter from Charles Kretschmann in Berlin who notes that Johnson in his June 24 1874 visit was “not pleased with the Berlin style of garments for this season and ordered only a very small lot”C.F. Hovey & Co. was founded by Charles Fox Hovey in 1833 as a dry goods merchant and with in a few years became a large department store located on Summer St. Through the years up to his death in 1859 he brought on many partners and was an ardent abolitionist and supporter of women’s rights establishing the Hovey Fund. After his death in 1859 Thomas Mack and Augustus De Puyster took over the running of the company and expansion through the Civil War. Johnson 1839-1927 was a Harvard grad clerk for Hovey & Co. and Civil War Veteran who rose from 1st Lieutenant in Co. H. Massachusetts 44th Infantry to Full Adjutant before mustering out right before Gettysburg. Hovey & Co. survived the massive fire of 1872 by employees soaking all the woolen blankets on the sales counters in water and placing over the roof and windows to protect the building from the flowing cinders expanded into store fronts on Chauncy and Avon Streets and was the first retailer to adopt the policy of requiring monthly payments on credit accounts. See: The History of the House of Hovey 1919; Charles Boston Looking Back at C.F. Hovey’s of Boston Shopping Days in Retro Boston May 6 2011; History of Fashion 1840-1900 Victoria and Albert Museum 2016. C.F. Hovey & Co., hardcover
2014Best.-Nr. 107544Harry N. Abrams. New. Hardcover. FREE UPGRADE to Courier/Priority Shipping Upon Request - IN STOCK AND IMMEDIATELY AVAILABLE FOR SHIPMENT - Flawless copy brand new pristine never opened - -- with a bonus offer-- . 2014. 1419706217 . Harry N. Abrams hardcover
1949Best.-Nr. 95082Paris: Lucien Lelong 1949. First edition of this notably rare spectacular promotional brochure for Lelong's fragrances with no other copies traced. Largely forgotten today apart from amongst the couture cognoscenti Lelong 1889-1958 was enormously influential. After the First World War Lelong took charge of his parents' small fashion house which was noted for its espousal of the modern look - the chic autobiographical heroine of Colette's 1908 novella Les Vrilles de la vigne is dressed by Lelong - and continued their tradition of innovation advancing the concept of the "kinétique" clothes "constructed in such a way that their true shape would emerge in movement not at rest". Not a designer himself he employed a number of young designers who were later to strike out on their own. Christian Dior Pierre Balmain and Hubert de Givenchy all spent time developing collections for Lelong. His contribution to the success of the house was in his vision and his marketing brilliance: he redesigned his parents' salon decorating entirely in black so that it was said to resemble a black-lined jewellery box he offered discounts to society women who agreed to be photographed in his dresses and was early into the branded perfume market. The first fragrances offered by Lelong were enigmatically named A B C J and N intending to evoke a sense of mystery and romance. The artfully designed bottles were largely the work of Lelong himself. Over 30 years he created a total of 27 different fragrances. This superbly produced catalogue features ten suitably mysterious and evocative plates by Cassandre né Adolphe Jean-Marie Mouron the Ukrainian-born French painter illustrator poster designer and typographer probably best-known for his imposing poster for the great CGT liner Normandie. Octavo. With 10 chromolithographic plates after illustrations by Cassandre and similarly printed plates from photographs of the perfume bottles themselves by Réné Messager. Original plain boards in cream wrapper front panel with company device embossed within debossed cartouche. Wrappers a little rubbed and irregularly toned spine slightly chipped at ends repair to short split at head of front joint contemporary gift inscription to front free endpaper else very good. hardcover
1951Best.-Nr. 200661951. Fashion Women's fashion design sketches dated 1951 document the rapid transformation of female dress following the end of wartime rationing and the international adoption of Christian Dior's "New Look" silhouette. These drawings show designers experimenting with narrow waists structured bustlines wide skirts and dramatic outerwear styles that defined postwar femininity and reshaped global fashion culture in the late 1940s and early 1950s. Such instructional sketches provide visual evidence of how couture aesthetics circulated through design schools and professional training environments during a moment when fashion industries in Europe and the United States were rebuilding after World War II. Archive of fifteen original women's fashion design sketches executed on nine illustration boards measuring approximately 11 x 14 inches. Drawings are rendered in pencil ink watercolor and collage techniques and depict coats dresses trench coats and daywear ensembles characteristic of early 1950s style. Several boards include multiple designs including sheath dresses with high necklines and plunging backs bell sleeved coats trimmed with fur and children's pinafore dresses worn over blouses. One design shows a woman wearing a flight jacket cravat and pleated trousers recalling mid century women adopting traditionally masculine tailoring. One board bears the signature "Reindel" on the verso. Designs prominently feature hourglass silhouettes associated with Dior's New Look including cinched waists sloped shoulders and flared skirts. Other garments incorporate menswear inspired coats and tailored outerwear reflecting the hybridization of wartime practicality and postwar luxury. Boards show light foxing and minor handling marks. Very good condition. A visual teaching archive illustrating postwar fashion design practice during the early Cold War era. unknown
1980Best.-Nr. 140454Milan: Styling Consulting Service 1980s. Rare visual reference for patterned textiles First and only edition of this visually beguiling and historically informative collection. The title leaf reports that "this photographic publication composed of pictures of original fabrics from 1903 up to 1925 taken from private files has been created to offer a proof of art and culture in the evolution of costume". We have been unable to trace any other copies. There is no indication of a printer or publisher anywhere in either volume or in the custom boxes nor any other hints as to the origin of this fascinating collection of pin-sharp colour photographs of fabric swatches. The work however is clearly of Italian origin and there is a hint of FMR in the thematic and in the precision of execution and presentation. The first volume concentrates on wool weaves; tweeds herringbones plaids and checks in a wide range of weights and colourways; the second is filled an even wider selection of patterned cottons a fabulous array encompassing design trends from the early decades of the 20th Century with inevitable hints at art deco art nouveau and sometimes brasher "jazz" influences; all kinds of stripes gingham tartans textiles suggestive of ties cravats suit linings waistcoats figured fabrics for dresses or skirts women's coats or jackets even upholstery or blinds. A painstaking and no doubt costly exercise the precision in the execution of the photography and processing bespeak a seriousness of purpose which makes the anonymity of the project even more extraordinary. 2 vols folio 297 x 210 mm. Black rough-weave cloth solander boxes with drop sides title gilt to spines and front boards explanatory title leaf to vol. I gold printed on glossy black medium card-stock the boxes containing respectively 50 and 100 loose sheets of similar card-stock each with mounted high-quality colour photographs c.180 x 180 mm to c.228 x 172 mm of fabric swatch composites between 3 and 8 samples to each lettered and numbered in gold. Slightly rubbed and a little dusty spines sunned corners bumped small neatly repaired tear at foot of spine of volume II card leaves with the occasional minor scuff but remains very good. hardcover
1940Best.-Nr. 33730Suzuka Japan et al. 1940. Very Good . Suzuka Japan: n.d. ca. 1940-1960. Nineteen original hand-stenciled designs ca 48x35cm; thirteen examples with rubber-stamp from two different craft shops the remaining six unattributed. Light wear and soil else a Very Good to Near Fine collection. Colorful multi-decade sampling of designs for the Japanese casual summertime cotton kimono known as yukata. The designs were almost certainly designed for children's outfits decorated as they are with baby birds puppies ducklings circus elephants bunnies musical instruments and teddy bears. The ten earliest examples all hail from the same shop and all use the same color scheme of navy blue slate blue and orange-brown. Later examples expand the color palate to much more vibrant and neon colors. One design in particular of a small child in a red bunny costume anticipates both the manga and the Hello Kitty aesthetic that became a global phenomenon beginning in the 1970s and 1980s. unknown
1927Best.-Nr. 19102AB1927. Paris Draeger 1927. 275 : 22 cm. 8 leaves with the text of Colette 6 plates by Jean Dupas 1 mounted plate. Original cloth original black wrappers illustrated in silver and red bound in. Excellent copy of the album Toi founded by Maison Les Fourrures Max and illustrated by Jean Dupas for the poems of Colette. One of the most beautiful catalogues created in art-déco."Ce bel étui noir onré de fleurs rouges et argent contient de superbes planches en camaieu gris et noir. La provocation des nus féminins que Jean Dupas a drapé des fourrures de la novelle collection est atténué par leur hiératisme de statue" in 'Arts et Métiers Graphiques' No.1 1927 - Bibliothèque Exposition Forney 1988. No.18. Jean Dupas Bordeaux 1882 - 1964 Grand Prix de Rome of painting in 1910 lead this album to the summit of publicity. - Some text-pages verso with mist of stains otherwise a superb copy of this mark stone of art deco. hardcover
1848Best.-Nr. 229448Paris 1848. First editions. Engraved fashion plates 677 of which are hand-colored. Many entitled "Modes de Paris". 16 vols. 4to. Bound in marbled boards with paper spine labels. First editions. Engraved fashion plates 677 of which are hand-colored. Many entitled "Modes de Paris". 16 vols. 4to. Periodical issued bi-weekly then weekly. Volumes for 1832-1836 have 24 issues 1837 has 26 and 1838-1848 have 52 issues each. unknown
Best.-Nr. TBF32Paris Janvier-Juillet 1832. 4 volumes large 8vo 217 x 130 mm gathering 76 plates in total: I/ 320 pp. 21 plates in color: 20 plates numbered from 201 to 220 and 1 not announced wrappers bound in; II/ 344 pages 20 plates numbered from 182 to 200 plate 260 last leaves on yellow paper upper wrapper bound in; III/ 320 pp. 17 plates numbered 221 to 237 wrappers bound in; IV/ 332 pp. quire 11 is missing hence there is a gap within the numbering from p. 253 to 276 17 plates numbered 242 to 256 without plates 238 and 254 tear touching the text p. 23 wrappers bound in. A few waterstains. Brown sheepskin blind-stamped border on the covers flat spines with green morocco lettering pieces yellow edges speckled with blue. Contemporary binding. Fourth year of this important magazine founded by Emile de Girardin who is proud to represent the Parisian spirit and fashionable life. We find there Doctor Véron whose presence soon attracts Alphonse Karr Alexandre Dumas Eugène Sue Georges Sand as well as Balzac. In 1830 passing under the control of the legitimists with Viscount Walsh La Mode will stand against the July Monarchy. The superb illustration is composed of 76 plates in color. Beautiful copy preserved in its contemporary homogeneous bindings. Français Paris Janvier-Juillet 1832. 4 volumes grand in-8 regroupant 76 planches au total : I/ 320 pp. 21 planches en couleur : 20 planches numérotées de 201 à 220 et 1 non annoncée couvertures conservées ; II/ 344 pages 20 planches numérotées 182 à 200 planche 260 derniers feuillets sur papier jaune couverture supérieure conservée ; III/ 320 pp. 17 planches numérotées 221 à 237 couvertures conservées ; IV/ 332 pp. manque le cahier 11 d'où un saut dans la numérotation de la p. 253 à 276 17 planches numérotées 242 à 256 planches 238 et 254 manquantes déchirure atteignant le texte p. 23 couvertures conservées. Qq. mouillures. Basane brune dentelle à froid sur les plats dos lisses avec pièces de titre et de tomaison en maroquin vert tranches jaunes mouchetées de bleu. Reliure de l'époque. 217 x 130 mm. Quatrième année de cette importante revue fondée par Emile de Girardin qui se flatte de représenter l'esprit et la vie parisienne de bon ton. On y retrouve le docteur Véron dont la présence attire bientôt Alphonse Karr Alexandre Dumas Eugène sue Georges Sand ainsi que Balzac. En 1830 passant sous le contrôle des légitimistes avec le vicomte Walsh La Mode se dressera contre la monarchie de Juillet. L'illustration superbe se compose de 76 planches en couleurs. Bel exemplaire conservé dans ses reliures uniformes de l'époque. hardcover
