830 Ergebnisse
1923Best.-Nr. ST20131London: Methuen & Co 1923. 218 x 138 mm. 8 1/2 x 5 1/2". vii 1 280 pp. ELEGANT DARK BLUE MOROCCO GILT BY BAYNTUN stamp-signed on front turn-in covers with gilt fillet frame stippled volute cornerpieces UPPER COVER WITH LOVELY MINIATURE PORTRAIT of a fashionable lady the painting under glass and surrounded by a gilt-tooled frame raised bands spine compartments with volute frame gilt lettering gilt-framed turn-ins ecru moiré silk endleaves all edges gilt. WITH 21 PLATES OF FASHIONABLE PEOPLE five of these called for one color and 16 EXTRA-ILLUSTRATED seven of these in color one double-page and nine in black & white all with tissue guards. Spine gently sunned to navy blue just a hint of rubbing to joints but still quite a fine copy--clean and fresh internally and with almost no signs of use inside or out. This handsomely illustrated look at the London social scene during the Victorian and Edwardian eras and after the Great War comes in a suitably chic binding by the last Victorian bindery still in family hands. Author Ralph Nevill 1865-1933 was a denizen of the world he writes about being the son of one of the leading hostesses of the day Lady Dorothy Walpole Nevill 1826-1913; DNB notes that "family tradition" held that Ralph's father was her close friend Benjamin Disraeli Lord Beaconsfield. Nevill has a wide array of insider anecdotes to share about country house life the pleasures of London society and prominent politicians and journalists. He makes it clear that the Victorian era was preferable to the 20th century and nothing is more drab that the post-war world. The illustrations feature portraits of prominent men landscapes of stately homes and scenes from the balls operas and royal occasions that made up the London Season. The very pretty binding is in the Cosway style made popular by bookseller Henry Sotheran and the Riviere bindery characterized by a miniature painting set under glass on the covers or doublures. Our binding was done by the venerable English firm founded in Bath by George Bayntun in 1894. Among the great English workshops of the Edwardian "golden age" of lavish bindings Bayntun has the distinction of being the only one located outside London's West End to be sought after by bibliophiles. Bayntun was a worthy rival to the likes of Sangorski & Sutcliffe and Riviere & Son the latter being subsumed by Bayntun in 1939. Bayntun of Bath continues to create fine hand bindings for bibliophiles. Unusually the miniature painting in our binding is signed by the artist but we were unable to decipher the signature and the Bayntun bindery did not have any information about the painter's identity. Methuen & Co unknown
1985Best.-Nr. 333396New York: alp 1985. hardcover. near fine/very good. Color and b/w illustrations. 312 pages. 4to pictorial cloth d.w. slightly de-laminating. New York: Alpine Fine Arts 1985. A near fine copy in a very good dust wrapper. alp unknown
1835Best.-Nr. 2200376Including a double-sided hand coloured lithograph mannequin 14.5cm high; together with 5 outdoor slipover costumes and matching hats and one indoor costume; a stand 9.5 x 13.5 cm in the form of a carpet with a hand coloured lithograph design on a red ground; contained in the original decorated box 14 x 10 x 2.5 cm the lid with a scene of a dressmakers salon with five ladies and the milliners showing her wares; enclosed within a decorative shaped and gilt embossed paper border; The underside of the box with the label of 'Delaville Sucr. de Terzuolo-Despilly. Papetier du Roi. Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin No. 15.' An early dressing game based on contemporary costumes and a visit to the milliners shop. The quality of this paper doll indicates it was made for the most expensive end of the market confirmed by the label of Delaville who from 1822 had been 'Papetier du Roi'. Delanville had been active from 1804 and got his royal warrant in 1822 he traded from the address Rue de la Chaussée d'Antin during the late 1820s through to at least 1833 but no longer appears in the Parisian l'Almanach du Commerce of 1837. The lid shows the scene of a well appointed milliners shop with six women conversing or examining merchandise the two central figures show a seated lady being shown a pink dress by her milliner. The mannequin is of a young lady in her under garments including laced bodice over a light cotton petticoat and wearing a neckless of emeralds rubies and gold. All clothing items show the front and back of the young woman including: 1 a silk dress with large puffed out sleeves and embroidered with flowers and shaped tongue ornaments; 2 a green gingham check dress and embroidered shirt with puffed sleeves and a ruff neck holding a parasol; 3 an ochre dress with green open-work lace and fringe banded collar waist and dress band; 4 a white evening dress with grape and vine decorated collar and matching dress with flowers wheat sheaves and roses a green belt with a key on a ribbon and holding a fan in her gloved hand; 5 A light overall decorated dress with leafy fronds and shell decoration wearing tow bracelets and clasping a book; 6 a turquoise evening dress with a white boa around the shoulders and long white gloves. The five interchangeable hats decorated with feathers ribbons and flowers. Delanville
1955Best.-Nr. 62463New York NY Kansas City MO & Carmel Santa Barbara & San Francisco CA: Marian Ross Mizelle Madrigal 1955-1974. Four Vols. and original Store Sign for Carmel CA boutique. Folio. 2 - 12 x 15.25 in. & 2 - 13 x 19 in. 48; 48; 48; 48 pp unpaginated. all w/ mylar sleeves archival black paper insert backings with 151 original designs in gouache watercolour chalk and pen & ink 38 in pen & ink or pencil sized from 7 x 11 in. up to 10 x 15 in. and nearly all signed by Marian Ross three feature original fabric sample swatches affixed to them including one w/ pencil MS “Winner” and mimeographed description affixed to verso several of them are translucent pochoir stapled to backing paper many are on thick stiff studio board while others on assorted textured paper stock. In addition there are three newspaper and magazine clippings 1966 & 2013 a photostat copy of early Ross Mizelle “Mod” fashion designs and original black & white silver gelatin photo of young Marian Ross modeling a wedding dress. All are preserved in flexible vinyl portfolios printed labels on spines some minor scuffing & shelfwear to portfolios occasional very minor closed tears or edgewear to the designs a few w/ minor holes from removed staples still an exemplary archive of designs together with the original Madrigal signboard sized 16 x 27 in. from their Carmel CA store. This sensational archive of original fashion designs for Kansas City MO based department store suppliers by Marian Ross Mizelle before her move to California in the 1970’s to establish the Madrigal boutique with her husband Elliot A. Mizelle 1916-2007. These vividly reveal the Mid-20th-Century fashion trends following World War II. Many of the designs in this collection reflect the transition from the late 1950’s elegance and emphasis on Dior’s “New Look” highlighting femininity and opulent use of fabrics towards the more youthful designs emerging out of Swinging London which were a slimming down beginning to raise hemlines with short skirts bolero tops and increasing influence of Pierre Cardin Andre Courreges and Givenchy. The Mid-20th-Century saw a tremendous upsurge in marketing slimmer lines tighter fitting bodices and fashions emerging from such cultural events as Audry Hepburn in her iconic 1961 “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” film which heavily influenced a generation of young women.Young Marian Ross b. 1936 after completing her Fashion Academy certificate in 1955 free-lanced and worked in the New York fashion industry before landing with the influential and hot-selling Gay Gibson label with Gernes Garment Co. in 1961. The Gernes Garment Co. had been originally founded in 1928 by Sara Desaix Gernes 1896-1978 and her husband Alexander Gernes 1882-1947 to market her groundbreaking fashion designs targeting everyday fashion for young women juniors and teens. Her designs proved very popular as she initiated and fashioned sizing and dresses and clothing for teenagers through young college-age women and her designs proved very successful and were marketed through Chicago’s Marshall Field’s department store. By 1961 the Gernes Garment Co. moved their design and pattern making department to New York to capture young fashion designers such as Marian Ross as well as be closer to the influential couturier houses in New York & Paris. The Gay Gibson label was marketed in Mademoiselle Seventeen Glamour and Vogue magazines with Twiggy often modeling Gay Gibson dresses in the 1960’s. Marian’s designs were inventive playful and emphasizing movement as well as comfort. Many of the fashion patterns depict her models in flats ballet flats or even shoeless while dressed in elegant evening or formal dress. Also depicted are designs such as billowing harem pants modified and sleek upscale poodle skirts and Tartan patterned capes pockets dresses and accessories. Others encompass swimwear ski wear as well as the emphasized and often enforced domesticity of the late 1950’s to 1960’s with stylish plaid house-dresses in the kitchen and bar as well as frequent use of lace. The Gay Gibson label maintained a showroom at 1407 Broadway on the 39th Floor in New York ad held over 24 showings from 1961-1969 including Junior Dresses Summer Collections Spring Junior Collections as well as Holiday and Resort collections. By the early 1970’s the label was having financial difficulties and the popularity began to drop with the company run by Desaix Gernes her mother and husband Paul before folding a few years after Sara Desaix Gernes’ death. Marian and Elliot Mizelle established Madrigal Inc. name chosen because of the seductive chic of Manhattan’s Le Madrigal restaurant and grew into a legendary luxury boutique at one point operating store fronts in Santa Barbara downtown San Francisco and Carmel CA. In her 2015 interview for “Women in Business” with the Carmel Pine Cone Marian stated she “wanted to be an actress but it didn’t work out that way. I used to sketch a lot so I studied design instead. Everything I touched while was designing worked. I got a lot of jobs and was featured on a lot of Seventeen magazine covers.” This cataloguer could find not similar extant archive of original designs for the 1960’s period of the Gay Gibson label or for Marian Ross Mizelle; See: Interview with Desaix Gernes Garment Industry Oral History Collection The Kansas City Public Library Jan. 14 2005 SC229 Series 2 2024; Gay Gibson Vintage Fashion Guild 2025; Donnelly Garment Company vs. International Ladies Garment Workers Union et al Photographs Clothing Demonstration The Pendergast Years Kansas City in the Jazz Age & Great Depression 2025. Marian Ross Mizelle, Madrigal, hardcover
Best.-Nr. 133200France: 18th century. Puffs Powders Patches Bibles Billet-doux A beautifully crafted vanity kit bound to mimic a French Book of Hours. Its elaborately gilt-tooled red morocco casing disguises an ingenious interior of fashionable accoutrements bodkin brush looking glass and miniature essentials writing tools all key elements of the ritualized toilette. Books of Hours - personal prayer books kept by laypersons for private devotion - were frequently the remit of women whether gifted to commissioned by or made for them. The books' content encouraged quiet introspection while their lavish illumination decoration and bindings became an external expression of wealth and status. This palm-sized "Heures Royal" as the spine label reads encourages reflection of a more literal kind. Instead of religious meditations its contents include a set of six vanity tools a removable mirror an ivory writing tablet and a retractable pencil all carefully positioned within a compartmentalized silk- and ribbon-lined interior. "A wealthy woman never left home without her travelling case or nécessaire which held her perfumes and toiletries" Martin p. 18. French vanity boxes ranged from the larger nécessaire de voyage and nécessaire de toilette to "nécessaires de poche which housed one or two important bottles and brushes for emergency application deep in the many pockets of their voluminous gowns" Martin. Even tinier were "much smaller vanity cases called etuis intended to fit into a pocket. another must-have item. These were also used as containers for other items such as sewing kits and writing tools" Stewart. Most of the finest manufacturers and retailers of nécessaires were located near to the Palais Royal in Paris. Cases were available in a wide variety of costly materials and designs often incorporated precious stones. Book-form examples like this are much more unusual. Alexander Pope satirized the toilette in The Rape of the Lock 1712 mocking the frivolous combination of "Puffs Powders Patches Bibles Billet-doux" - a clash of religious and cosmetic devotion neatly encapsulated in this etui case. This item has been registered with the UK government's ivory declaration service. Book-form box sextodecimo 112 x 72 mm. Original red morocco green spine label lettered "Heures Royal" raised bands compartments covers and inner dentelles heavily gilt-tooled with floriate scrollwork and star motifs edges gilt 2 metal catches. Interior lined with green moiré silk and trimmed with yellow ribbon. Interior sections include recesses one holding 12 blank paper slips tied with pink ribbon a hinged panel supporting an ivory aide-memoire leaf on recto and a pull-out mirror on verso and compartments for 6 miniature engraved vanity tools: 2 retractable styluses likely formerly holding a pencil or tooth pick pair of scissors bodkin with ear spoon at end scraper and brush. Externally bright and well preserved small chip at upper outer corner of front cover tiny pinholes at edges near catches; internally sound lining a little frayed implements tarnished mirror desilvered and corroded. A remarkable survival. Morag Martin Selling Beauty: Cosmetics Commerce and French Society 2009; Susan Stewart Common and Uncommon Scents: A Social History of Perfume 2022. hardcover
