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[FASHION ART -- DESIGNS/WOMEN]. [DUFFY, Barbara (Artist/Designer) & MANGONE, Philip].Biblio.com

Seven original fashion designs by teacher and later commercial artist Barbara Duffy while working as a teacher for the Jacob Gould Vocational School in Brooklyn NY including designs for mink coats “Toppers” coats for women wearing skirts & blouses stylish “Paris” hats belted dresses and long evening dress. The last of the designs depicts a beaver pelt trimmed coat “Sketched at Mangone’s.”

1942réf. 61064Brooklyn NY: Barbara Duffy ca. 1942-1945. Seven pieces of original pen & ink art and gouache colouring and overpainting sized from 10 x 15 in. 3 up to 15 x 20 in. 3 on “Winsor & Newton’s Illustration Board 30 x 40” while the 7th piece is 9 x 17 in. executed on textured thick laid-paper pencil annotations in MS on fore-edges all pieces signed in thick black pen on versos some dustsoiling staining to fore-edges to a couple bumping to corners edgewear still a VG set of well-done exemplars. These original fashion design illustrations encompass women’s dresses hats fur coats evening wear and a post-War design by Mangone. The two dresses drawn by Duffy are reminiscent of the Claire McCardell easy to wear and comfortable dresses which emerged at the end of the War and featured a cinched-in waist floppy collars and padded shoulders retaining the influence of men’s tailoring on women’s fashions during the War. The “Toppers” are splendid examples of box or swagger coats often made in light wool cotton or rayon blends and in this case with fetching hats and cinched-in waists. The two smaller designs with mink or beaver coats include one with a matching purse and the other with a pillbox hat. The two “Paris” style Cloche hats are nicely drawn and one is fitted with a mesh veil. The exceptional Mangone design indicates it was “Sketched at Mangone’s” which was probably one of the frequent sessions the designer would put on fashion shows at the Fashion Institute or local boutiques in and around New York following World War II and features a coat trimmed in beaver fur with Cloche hat and according to Duffy was available in light and dark wool along with an ascot. Mangone 1884-1957 was not only a significant Italian-American designer who quickly adapted Paris fashion trends into his own American style and was very popular from before World War I until after World War II. Strikingly he also was a survivor of the Hindenburg disaster who managed to leap from the Zeppelin at Lakehurst NJ with his daughter and grand-daughter looking on suffering significant burns and after shock and hospitalization spent considerable time recovering. Duffy b. 1919 taught at the Jacob Gould Vocational School for girls in Prospect Park Brooklyn NY from the time she left college until after World War II after which she worked as designer in local department stores and then disappears from census and public records. Barbara Duffy, unknown

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis1 450,00 $US≈ 1 295,45 €

[FASHION -- JANTZEN SWIMWEAR SALES CATALOGUE].Biblio.com

Sensational! New 1940 water fabrics made with Lastex Yarn: Jantzen style book and retail sales manual. . . .

1940réf. 64735Portland OR: Jantzen Knitting Mills 1940. 8vo. 32 pp. With colour chart of “Water-Velva” fabrics on inner front cover photo illustrations throughout. Colour-illustrated softcovers updated Jantzen diving girl logo on front cover and illustration of Water-Velva fabric front cover minor rubbing soiling occasional internal pricing & product annotations still a VG copy from the library of Jantzen Co. founder John Adam Zehntbauer 1884-1969 who in 1910 had set up the Portland Knitting Co. with Carl Jantzen and C.R. Zehntbauer later becoming longtime President of the company. First edition of this very rare in-house sales manual and advertising catalogue for Jantzen Swimwear and sportswear line featuring their Lastex Yarn line-up. In the late 1930’s the Jantzen swimwear lineup became synonymous with glamour and beach fashion culture often with designs created and inspired by such movie stars as Loretta Young Joan Blondell Ginger Rogers and Dick Powell for 1-piece and 2-piece Jantzen swimsuits representing Jantzen’s philosophy of flattering the female form. These styles incorporate in this catalogue the development and introduction of the more waterproof elastic Lastex Yarn “Water-Velva” which was blended into the wool rayon cotton and silk blends in order to allow better give and fit to the suits as well as the introduction of the “Molded Fit” bustline suits. The men’s swimwear depicted in this catalogue include the “Half-Hitch Topper” “De Luxe Topper” “Commodore” “Surfer” and others.Jantzen Knitting Mills were founded in 1910 as the Portland Knitting Company and within a few years they were producing a wool suit for rowing teams and then began offering bathing suits in their catalogue. By 1918 the demand for the “Jantzen Suits” had increased so much the company changed their name to the Jantzen Knitting Mills and in 1921 the red Diving Girl logo appeared as part of a national advertising campaign. The Jantzen trademark was purchased by Perry Ellis in 2002. See: Carrie Snyder & Debra Regan Cleveland Jantzen Inc. -- Fashion Designer Encyclopedia; Jantzen Timeline 2016. No copies in Worldcat. Jantzen Knitting Mills, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis125,00 $US≈ 111,68 €

[FASHION -- BUTTONS].Biblio.com

Season 1911. Remarkable Silk & Vegetable Ivory buttons salesman sample catalogue.

1911réf. 51748France: n.p. 1911. Tall 8vo. 6 leaves on thick card stock printed in gilt & black 7 x 11 in. with 369 black silk & vegetable ivory buttons all with stock numbers below and to the side many in the dark brown patterned material some jet black and many with incised or woven patterns each sample card carefully mounted within corners with facing padded red silk leaves to protect the buttons many with ink annotations indicating whether they were available in stock or not. Quarter-black cloth over purple patterned cloth gilt lettering on front cover spine very minor rubbing at the hinges slight bumping to corners still a NF exemplar with the buttons entirely complete and in perfect condition. First edition of this remarkably beautiful Edwardian button sample catalogue which are exceedingly scarce in such exceptional condition. Included are a number of different styles of buttons in vegetable ivory for clothing coats sportswear and more which were sold by this French manufacturer for export together with a number of beautifully woven black silk cloth buttons for women’s coats hats and dresses. Vegetable Ivory is a very dense material that is manufactured into buttons from the Corozo nut that grows on the Tague Tree a type of Palm. It was named Vegetable Ivory in the 19th Century because it resembles real ivory but was not as heavy or dense. These types of buttons were first introduced at the 1862 International Exhibition in England and then reached full popularity at the 1867 Paris Exposition. The sample buttons preserved here come in pressed carved and fine lined patterns some of them painted with a dark flat black other shiny black and many with a beautiful rich shiny mottled effect. During the Victorian and Edwardian periods and prior to the growth in production and popularity these were the buttons of choice for men’s suits. No copies located in Worldcat. n.p.], hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis1 250,00 $US≈ 1 116,77 €

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