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A well-executed group of 12 original fashion designs of actresses for a theatrical production of an unnamed Civil War historical drama featuring several different costumes many preserving their fabric samples.

1960réf. 56965Pasadena CA: n.p. ca. 1960. Folio. 14.5 x 20 in. Twelve original gouache paintings on thick artist’s board 10 of them either w/ typed or manuscript labels 1 entitled “Garden Party” written in manuscript at upper fore-edge 8 preserving their cloth fabric swatch samples some w/ designer’s notes trimmings etc. All are preserved in a gray linen clamshell case minor edgewear rubbing wear to corners still a well-preserved fine set of paintings. This nicely executed set of fashion designs were apparently created for a Civil War theatre production in Southern California around 1960 with characters named Florence Bagshot Mrs. Ludley Bagshot Agatha Mrs. W.D.P.S. and Mrs. Forbes. The designs primarily focused on the women characters including one of a nurse standing in costume in gray striped dress apron and cap with Confederate cavalry trooper in kepi astride his horse and hatless officer with sash standing in the background. Many of the designs reflect the colour palate of the early 1960’s with avocado green vivid blues solid brown earth tones and bright nearly neon orange gauze fabrics in the renderings and samples which would not have been common in those combinations during the Civil War era. Still most of the dress designs incorporate the hoop skirts of the period often with crinoline and/or crinoline cage hoop skirts and high collars with ties and ribbons at the neck and trim patterns typical of the period. The design for Florence Bagshot’s bedroom wear incorporates elements of Mid 20th-Century design and sensibilities rather than the more common chemise and sturdy cotton for the 1860’s. The Confederate Nurse design was painted on “Brownie Board Cold Pressed Duncan Vail Co. Los Angeles” which appears in California art supply advertising from about 1960-1963. We were unable to identify the production after an extensive search through contemporary theatre production trade magazines newspapers and other industry publications. n.p., hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis650,00 $US≈ 579,58 €

Motley Crue, Iron Maiden, Guns N' Roses, Depeche Mode, Fatal Attraction, Porno for Pyros, Billy Idol, and Culture ClubBiblio.com

Archive: California Heavy Metal and Punk Concert Tickets from 1983-1996

1996réf. 403084California 1996. Hardcover. Near Fine. A Collection of 100 used concert tickets featuring punk new wave and heavy metal bands performing in California from 1983 through 1996. The tickets vary in size from 3” x 2” to 5.25” x 2.5”. All items are near fine with light soiling and a modest amount of creasing except for three torn tickets and 4 tickets stubs from use. The L.A. and Bay Area rock scene started in the late 1970s until new wave and heavy metal bands became the central focus of the 1980s. Some of the bands include: Mötley Crüe Iron Maiden Guns N’ Roses Depeche Mode Fatal Attraction Porno for Pyros Billy Idol Culture Club and others. The tickets span from Los Angeles to San Francisco and cities in between from 26 different venues some of which include The Troubadour Coconut Teaszer The Stone Trocadero Transfer The Metro Cow Palace The Palomino and Filthy McNasty Station. Many of the tickets are bright colors with printed pictures and stamped band logos showing the typographic designs of the time frame. Many bands kicked off their careers in California during this time. Mötley Crüe a popular heavy metal band formed in Los Angeles in 1981 is featured here playing at Oakland stadium on October 10 1987. The band is well known for their heavy make-up shocking clothing high-heeled boots and their abuse of drugs and alcohol. In 1985 the band transitioned to a more glam metal style influencing the heavy metal signature look. Guns N' Roses formed in 1985 in Los Angeles and is featured here playing at the Warfield Theatre on February 5 1988. They are a hard rock band that quickly gained popularity after the release of their debut album “Appetite for Destruction” which has sold over 28 million copies worldwide. The band has been labeled as the "the most dangerous band in the world" due to their rebelliousness and were credited to the rekindling of rock music during a time of dance music and glam metal. 1n 1992 Porno for Pyros formed in Los Angeles as an alternative rock group formed out of Jane’s Addiction. They are featured here playing at the Trocadero Transfer on June 19 1996. Their shows featured props extras and pyrotechnics. The band lasted through the mid-1990s and mixed the sounds of grunge and rock together. In the 1980s California became the melting pot of music genres mixing in punk rock new wave and metal. Certain venues became synonymous with the music genres and bands of that time. The Stone opened in the 1980s and was linked to the Keystone Berkeley and Keystone Palo Alto. It was large enough for a capacity of 700 sold only hard liquor at the bar and attracted an audience with bigger hair bigger shoes and makeup. It featured many local and big name artists in its day and was an important part of the Bay Area rock scene in the 1980s. The Coconut Teaszer operated from the 1980s through the mid-2000s. It hosted bands from all genres and featured a downstairs acoustic bar named “8121”. Sawdust on the dance floor and giant goblets for draft beer were some of the popular trademarks of the venue. One of the notable and peculiar policies of the venue was “no open toe shoes” which was painted on the front door. The Troubadour which is still functioning today opened in 1957. New wave and punk was the main feature for The Troubadour in the late 1970s and early 1980s. Through the 1980’s the venue became synonymous with the heavy metal genre and glam bands during that time. Today The Troubadour is revered as one of Hollywood’s most respected places to see live music. An attractive collection of brightly colored concert tickets featuring popular heavy metal and punk bands from the 1980s through the mid-1990s displaying over a decade of music in California. hardcover

Between the Covers- Rare Books, Inc. ABAA · États-Unis700,00 $US≈ 624,16 €

Mary Taylor Zimbalist (1915-2008), actress, socialite, fashion model, activist and disciple of Krishnamurti, wife of film producBiblio.com

Mary Zimbalist film actress and disciple of Krishnamurti. Collection of 28 letters and cards to playwright Christopher Fry an intimate and affectionate correspondence on a number of topics.

réf. 21925From Brockwood Park Bramdean Hampshire and Ojai California. Between 1978 and 2008. A total of twenty-eight items of correspondence comprising: nineteen Autograph Letters Signed two on the backs of cards two Typed Letters Signed and seven Autograph Cards Signed. In good condition. All signed 'Mary' and the large part addressed to 'Christopher' with a few to 'Kit' and one to 'Dear Phyl i.e. Fry's wife Phyllis dear Christopher'. The correspondence indicates a deep affection and long-standing intimacy. In 1987 she transcribes entries from her diary of 1958 regarding dinners in Rome between the Frys and Zimbalists while Fry was working on the script of the film 'Ben Hur' which Sam Zimbalist produced commenting: 'it is startling to find how these pale ink lines evoke us then – almost 20 sic years ago'. Later in the letter she states: 'I wish I could have seen the tv broadcast of The Lady and hope you have a video recording of it. It is like wanting to again hear the English language rising and thundering like winter surf and pure as a Bach prelude. Since Christopher Fry this does not happen these days.' In 1997 she writes: 'So many things hovered in my head all night some of them reaching back to Italian summer days when you and Phyl and Sam and I were together. An unbroken line began then for me of feeling whenever I was with Phyl and you that all was well with the world. That has continued ever since – something wondrously enduring.' And in 2000 she tells him that hearing his news 'is a sort of centre of gravity'. Topics include: her pleasure in his messages and calls texts he has sent her 'What you have said about death and love touches so many things I feel profoundly and the eloquence is no less than the truth.' her admiration for his work 'Language is such a root of human understanding. Other writers seem to be stuttering alongside the eloquence of your plays. Your language unfolds in breadth in splendour a music of the mind. It is as if you are creating language of a different order new and yet with its original and intrinsic meaning freed.' her travels her health in 1988: 'I seem to be hobbling about with little grace but ground-covering success' the taking of vitamins a centenarian's death. In 1999 she comments on a list of 'Krishnamurti books' she is sending him concluding by noting that 'Krishnamurti's Notebook' is 'one that is not personal for a time a daily recording of consciousness. In it he notes the curious physical pain he called “the process”. It had begun with extreme severity in 1922 after a spiritual experience that altered his life and continued to manifest from time to time with differing intensity. He did not consider it as physical illness but as having to do with perceptive ability. He never took anything to mitigate or affect it and seldom spoke of it.' From Brockwood Park, Bramdean, Hampshire, and Ojai, California. Between 1978 and 2008. unknown

Richard M. Ford Ltd · Royaume-Uni550,00 £GB≈ 654,54 €

[FASHION -- TEXTILES]. [SCHUMANN, Maria (Artist & Designer); WINKLER, August].Biblio.com

Fall fashion design factory sample catalogue with designs by . . . Drawn and handcoloured by Maria Schumann.

1939réf. 63709Aussig Usti Nad Labem Czechoslovakia & Vienna: C. Wolfrum ca. 1939. Folio. 50 leaves. 1 leaf with type-written explanation of all the fashions illustrated in the catalogue. 44 hand-coloured pochoir fashion designs on translucent paper each with item number printed below 5 leaves with printed designs showing the backs of all the fashions some pencil shading and details added. Original textured beige softcovers embossed WMI Wolfrum Manufacturing on front cover metal spiral bound as issued some dustsoiling & wear to fore-edges of covers very slight bumping to couple corners still a VG copy w/ beautifully illustrated fashion designs. First edition of this exceedingly scarce original trade catalogue issued by the C. Wolfrum textile firm in Czechoslovakia for its Vienna Austria market around the time of the forced annexation of the Sudetenland by Nazi Germany in 1939. The firm was famed for its woolen & silk textiles for women’s fashions and their catalogues were very desired. This catalogue includes fashions for silk rayon & wool women’s dress suits leisure suits formal evening dresses & winter coats all evoking the fashion trends of the period. The designs in the catalogue reflect the rising influence of militaristic styles and fascism with square-edged shoulder pads the plate hats as well as the emphasis on tight waists and long skirts. There are a couple designs with distinctive chocolate brown for leisure wear reflecting the heavy Nazi-influenced fashion design of the period. In addition the slim lines were enhanced by cutting clothes across the fabric avoiding bunches of gathers at the waist for full skirts allowing material to flow. In addition the evening wear dresses emphasized low or no backs and hair was to be grown long and worn swept up. This catalogue also includes a few evening formal dress designs clearly inspired by the dresses worn by Vivien Leigh in the 1939 Gone With the Wind Movie with the puffed sleeves polk-a-dot patterns and fabrics. No copies in Worldcat. C. Wolfrum, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis750,00 $US≈ 668,75 €

[FASHION -- TEXTILES]. NEURATH, RichardBiblio.com

Herbst- und Winter-Mode 1927-1928. In dieser Buch-Mode-Kollektion finden Sie die allerneuesten Dessins erprobter Qualitaten Fall and Winter Fashions; Nachtragskarte zur grunen Stammkollktion. . . . Salesman sample tailoring catalogue.

1927réf. 57311Graz Austria: Richard Neurath Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21 1927. Two vols. 1st - Folio. 11 x 13.75 in. 45 1 pp. on thick boards. With 246 tipped-in fabric samples of wools wool blends 27 fashion plate illustrations 2 for women’s coats w/ price list and letter to salesmen dated August 1927. Original quarter-black cloth over embossed & decorated boards flaps at fore-edges w/ handle and clasp raised gilt lettering on front cover minor shelfwear rubbing clasp guard repaired & reinforced still VG complete exemplar retaining the original button clasp; together with 4to. 8.25 x 11.25 in. 4 pp unpaginated. w/ 16 additional wool and wool-blend samples tipped-in self-printed covers rounded corners. First edition of this unusually rare fashion salesman sample catalogue for men’s suits and sporting wear during the Roaring 20’s with many of the suits sporting vests while also featured are shooting & hiking suits sportswear and a rich array of fabrics drawing upon English fashion designs. Following World War I there was a concerted move away from starched collars and formal three-piece suits towards soft collars one- or two-button suit jackets and even often worn without a waistcoat. Also featured in this catalogue are many examples of the plus-fours developed out of ordinary knickers these short-legged pants were a baggier version of their predecessors and proved popular for hikers golfers and other outdoors activities. Also featured are winter coat fabrics and designs for women in velour and thick felt twill. The laid-in additional catalogue promoted the latest Loden Merino wool fabrics and thick camel hair woolens. Neurath 1882-1948 operated a successful mail-order tailoring business until the 1938 Anschluss when the Nazi’s annexed Austria and forced the April 10 plebiscite. He survived the War and later died in Tel Aviv Israel in 1948. The building which housed his offices and tailoring facilities in Graz is now the home of the popular Cafe Kaiserfeld. No copies in Worldcat. Richard Neurath, Kaiserfeldgasse 19 und 21, hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis750,00 $US≈ 668,75 €

[FASHION -- SINGER SEWING MACHINES/WOMEN]. SINGER SEWING; ALOS, MargaritaBiblio.com

Libro “Singer” de bordados. . . ; Academia “Singer” Villa Canas: examen primer curso Ano 1939. . . Singer company embroidery manual together with embroidery sample catalogue for Singer Sewing Center in Argentina showing all of Ms. Alos’ sewing samples.

1939réf. 53215New York: Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co. Departamento de Educacion January 1941; 1939. Two vols. 1st - Tall 8vo. 225 1 pp. Over 150 colour and black & white photo illustrations diagrams. Black textured softcovers gilt lettering & decoration printed on front cover edgewear bumping to corners minor soiling old tape repairs to front cover still G- copy; 2nd -- Oblong 4to. 12 x 7.75 in. 54 pp. on pink-tinted paper with 57 tipped-in fabric embroidered sewing samples including over on linen silk lace satin and wool textiles each w/ school stamp approving sample. Half-blue cloth post-binder over blue goards gilt lettering stamped on front cover sewn at gutter margin w/ white silk ribbon soiling minor dampstain curving to covers from the bulk of the tipped-in samples on the leaves still a VG exemplar. Both preserved in blue textured cardboard box & lid minor edgewear faint tidemark to lower fore-edge 1 corner. Fourth revised edition of this well-illustrated embroidery guide on stitches to be learned and executed on Singer Sewing Machines together with a beautifully done sample book showing Ms. Alos’ skills in learning the necessary skills in her Singer school in Villa Canas Argentina. The Singer Sewing Machine company developed special Singer Sewing Academia in Argentina Mexico and many other South American countries as well as Spain between the World Wars. These special private schools for professional dressmakers using the Singer manuals allowed female-owned dressmaking businesses to grow and create professional spaces separte from men. In addition these academias allowed women to pay by the class and embroidery was one of the advanced skills which commanded higher wages for women at the time. Singer actively encouraged this movement in order to develop home-based businesses and academias which in turn increased their sales of sewing machines. The sample book begins with a number of decorative types of embroidery stitches monograms and then displays floral patterns spider-web patterns laces a beautifully embroidered red roses and carnations on purple silks and satins. Worldcat locates 2 copies of the Libro Singer Bibliotecas del Tecnologico de Monterrey Mexico; British Library 3rd editions; See: Ketteler Sewing through the years in art women and society; Paula de la Cruz-Fernandez Atlantic Threads: Singer in Spain and Mexico 1860-1940 pp. 198-210. Singer Sewing Machine Manufacturing Co., Departamento de Educacion, paperback

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis750,00 $US≈ 668,75 €

[FASHION -- MEN'S SHIRTS]. [LEYENDECKER, Joseph Christian].Biblio.com

Original small salesman’s sample oak & glass counter display for Arrow collars preserving two original collars; Leyendecker advertisement for Arrow shirts & collars with Arrow man holding the tiller of a sailboat with young woman companion leaning against the rail looking over her shoulder.

1930réf. 45898Troy NY: Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett Peabody & Co. Inc. ca. 1930; 1955. Quarter-sawn oak salesman sample counter display case 18.75 x 6 x 6 ins. with glass top & front door in back with catch w/ original label at bottom of the display indicating that this case was only to be used for the display of the Company collars preserving two Arrow Shirt Co. Collars some scuffing and wear to label at bottom of case affecting lettering minor wear to sides of case together with original Leyendecker advertisement printed on canvas w/ oak frame 28.5 x 21.5 ins. the piece has been professionally cleaned and mounted on archival foam core and removed from the original bars which were damaging the image and placed back in the oak frame some sunning faint discoloration to upper left margin still remarkable pieces. A wonderful advertising display for Arrow shirts and collars including pre-World War II counter sample case and 1950s promotional ad reproducing one of the famed Leyendecker images. These pieces originally came out of a small men’s clothing shop in Bend Oregon. The Arrow collars grew from the marketing idea by Cluett Peabody & Co. in Troy NY that it gave women an easier way to clean their husbands’ stained shirt collars without having to wash the entire shirt. In addition the collars wore out a much faster rate than the rest of the shirts so these replaceable collars would extend the life of the garments. This style of detachable collars remained popular up until the mid-1930s and largely declined out of use by the end of World War II.Leyendecker 1874-1951 created the Arrow Collar Man which was an advertising campaign that ran from 1905 - 1931 and was perhaps one of the most successful product brands in history. He created 100s of images and many of them are still synonymous with men’s fashion and styles. This advertisement was part of a revived campaign by Arrow Shirt Co. in the 1950s through early 1960s as they revived the nostalgia of the Leyendecker ads and pushed their shirts with soft collars. Arrow Shirt Co./ Cluett, Peabody & Co., Inc., hardcover

Zephyr Used & Rare Books · États-Unis850,00 $US≈ 757,91 €

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